Urbana Chesapeake Cromwell Hardwood

Dimensions: 5/8" x 7 1/2" x Random Lengths 24" To 73"
Construction: Plank
Species/Design: Hickory Engineered Hardwood
Coverage: 22.82/SQ.FT
Edge Style: Micro-Beveled
Finish: UV Cured Urethane
Install Method: Glue, Float, Staple, Nail
Where to install: All Grade Levels
Surface Type: Brushed
Warranty: 25 Years

Quarter Round
Reducer
Stair Nose
Threshold
T Molding

INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITIES
Hardwood flooring is a product of nature and its inherent beauty stems from the fact that each piece is unique with no two pieces the same. Due to the fact that this flooring is a product of nature, the installer and/or owner, have the following responsibilities:
1) Understanding how the floor will look once installed – the installer and owner must meet prior to
installation to review:
a. How was the floor chosen? Review the control samples, (the samples from which the floor was chosen), and compare to the actual flooring batch onsite prior to installation
making sure it meets the owner’s expectations as to:
i. Grade – is it the correct grade? Also grade from batch to batch may vary slightly so make su re the owner is happy with this batch of flooring you are about to install.
ii. Color/Graining - do certain dark/light pieces or wild grained need to be graded out to meet the owner’s expectations?
iii. Color Variation, Batch to Batch – inspect the production run of flooring you received and make sure it meets your expectations. Wood from different locales can have varying colors and grains and differ from the samples from which the floor was chosen. Tint colors may also vary slightly batch to batch. Make sure the owner will be happy with the batch they received.
iv. Color Change - do they understand how the wood will change color over time? The owner may have chosen their floor from samples that have aged so they need to understand in advance of installation the color change to be expected in this wood.
v. Finish issues – Is the gloss correct? Does the look of the finish meet the owner’s expectations? Does the owner understand that the finish will scratch, and wear and that care
must be taken during the installation, move-in and in-use?
Congratulations! You have now made sure that the owner will not be disappointed once the flooring is installed and they see it for the first time!! The person installing the floor is responsible for visual issues once the flooring is installed.
2) Installer responsibilities during installation:
a. Receive the floor & make sure it is as ordered and meets the owner’s expectations.
b. Test the subfloor and relative humidity on site to make sure the flooring will perform satisfactorily on this installation.
c. Follow these Installation Instructions.
d. Grade out any pieces with visible defects and stop the installation should a reoccurring problem be found, (over the 5% allowed by industry practices). DO NOT INSTALL pieces with visible defects.
3) Keep a Permanent Job Record
4) Make sure the owner understands that wood and water, (as well as overly dry conditions), do not mix as wood flooring is a natural material and will shrink/cup/move when over-dried and will expand/swell, delaminate, warp and buckle/cup when over-wetted.
5) Make sure the owner (and their cleaning service, if applicable) understands how to maintain the floor. Give them a copy of the Maintenance Instructions & Product Warranty.

WARNING: Our flooring is well manufactured and is designed to perform within the typical residential environment. We are not responsible for site conditions, as we do not control them. Only you, the installer can test and correct for too dry or too wet site conditions prior to installation. Note: Wood flooring installed in areas where the relative humidity is below 35% may cup, shrink in width/length, finish peel, or crack and in these dry conditions a humidifier is necessary to bring relative humidity above 35%. Flooring installed on top of wet sub floors may crown (and then cup), swell (and then shrink), buckle, telegraph, crack/check, finish peel, or edge/tip raise. Flooring that is soaked from above will do the same. DO NOT INSTALL THIS FLOORING ON WET SUBFLOORS OR IN OVERLY DRY
CONDITIONS without first correcting any deficient conditions.

PRE-INSTALLATION JOBSITE REQUIREMENTS
The HVAC must be running prior to beginning the installation.
Carefully examine the flooring prior to installation for grade, color, finish and quality. Ensure adequate lighting for proper inspection and make sure you review all different lots of material before beginning. If flooring is not acceptable, contact your distributor immediately and arrange for replacement. We are not responsible for flooring installed with visible defects. Prior to installation of any flooring, the installer must ensure that the jobsite and subfloor meet the requirements of these instructions. We are not responsible for flooring failure resulting from unsatisfactory jobsite and/or subfloor conditions.

Hardwood flooring should be one of the last items installed for any new construction or remodel project. All work involving water or moisture should be completed before flooring installation. Warning – water and wood do not mix. Installing flooring onto a wet subfloor will likely cause cupping, tip & edge raising, telegraphing of core and subsequent gapping.

Room temperature and humidity of installation area should be consistent with normal, year-round living conditions for at least a week before installation of wood flooring. Room temperature of 65-75°F and a humidity range of 35-65% is recommended. Warning - humidity levels below 35% will likely cause movement in the flooring, including gapping between pieces and possible cupping and checking in the face.

We cannot be held responsible for site conditions. Flooring formats, such as plywood based engineered wood flooring, are susceptible to showing movement such as edge/end shrinking and face checking from low relative humidity below 35% on site and/or tip raising and subsequent end shrinking if installed over a wet subfloor.

Store the wood flooring, in the UNOPENED boxes, at installation area for 24 -72 hours before installation to allow flooring to adjust to room temperature. Do not store the boxes of flooring directly on concrete.
In most areas of the country, engineered wood floors DO NOT need any moisture equalization prior to installation and should be installed from just opened boxes. DO NOT OPEN more than a few boxes in advance of installation and only the number of boxes which will be installed within the next few hours.



PRE-INSTALLATION SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
All Subfloor must be:
• Structurally sound
• Clean: Thoroughly swept and free of all debris (If being glued down, subfloor must be free from wax, grease, paint, sealers, & old adhesives etc., which can be removed by sanding)
• Level: Flat to 3/16” per 10-foot radius
• Dry and will remain dry: Subfloor must remain dry year-round. Moisture content of wood sub floors must not exceed 11%, concrete must not exceed 75% using an in-situ RH probe, 3lbs using a calcium chloride test, and 3.5 as measured with a Commercial Concrete Moisture Meter
Wood Sub Floors must be dry and well secured. Nail or screw every 6” along joists to avoid squeaking. If not level, sand down high spots and fill low spots with an underlayment patch. Must accept and hold both cleats or staples using a nail-down installation method.

Concrete Sub Floors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have minimum 6-mil polyfilm between concrete and ground. Subfloor should be flat and level within 3/16” on 10’. If necessary grind high spots down and level low spots with leveling compound.
Do not install on concrete unless YOU ARE SURE it stays dry year-round. All concrete should be tested for moisture using an in-situ RH probe (result must be 75% or less) or Calcium Chloride testing (result must be 3 lbs per 1000sf or less). If uncertain the subfloor will remain dry, we recommend using a vapor barrier.

It is highly recommended, that if gluing down on concrete, (even if you believe it is dry), which is on or below grade, to install a moisture barrier first and then glue the wood flooring on top.

Remember, a concrete slab on /below grade that measures dry today may become moist in the future due to rising groundwater. Installing a moisture barrier now may be viewed as an insurance policy against concrete becoming wet in the future. This will lead to subsequent floor failure. The manufacturer is not responsible for site related moisture issues.

Ceramic tile, resilient tile and sheet vinyl covered Subfloors must be well-bonded to subfloor, in good condition, clean and level. Do not sand existing vinyl floors, as they may contain asbestos.
Radiant heat: When a product is approved for radiant heat, use only floating installation over radiant heat. Subfloor should never exceed 8o°F. A data logger may be required for this product over radiant heat. Check with radiant heat manufacturer’s suggested guidelines to limit the maximum water temperature inside heating pipes. Switch off heating unit one or two days before flooring installation and bring heat up slowly after installation.




INSTALLATION TOOLS
For all installation methods:
• Tape measure
• Tapping block (or trimmed piece of flooring)
• Pencil
• Pry bar
• Chalk line
• Wood or plastic spacers (1/2”)
• Crosscut power saw
• Hammer

For the recommended glue-down installation method, you’ll also need:
• Flooring adhesive manufacturers
(Note: Use only urethane or silane adhesives – DO NOT USE water based mastics as they can cause this floor to fail)
• On concrete slabs, which are on/below grade, we recommend installing a moisture barrier first and then installing the wood floor on the moisture barrier or using an approved Adhesive Brand Moisture Barrier System
• Trowel per flooring adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.

For nail-down and glue assist installation, you will also need:
• Industrial Flooring Stapler or Nailer with adapter shoe to assure the proper position for the nail/staple
• 1-1/2” to 2” long staples (20 gauge)
• 1-1/2” L-shaped cleats (20 gauge) – 1-1/4” is acceptable if the cleat has a barbed edge
Please Note: the fastener length must be at least 1-1/2” in length (1” is not acceptable) some OSB Subfloors do not provide sufficient fastener holding power. In this case adhesive should be applied to the back side of the board mainly under the groove.
• Air compressor
• Flooring Adhesive - for Glue Assisted Nailing. Products wider than 5" wide, in addition to the use of mechanical fasteners, assisted glue applications is recommended by the NWFA. The glue should be specifically designed for flooring and applied in a serpentine pattern to the back of each board or in a straight line along the groove side edge of each board and along the ends. Then follow the recommended fastening pattern.

For floating installation, you’ll also need:
• Underlayment
• Flooring Tongue and Groove adhesive

Acceptable Subfloor types:
• Plywood (at least 3/4” thick)
• Underlayment grade particleboard -floating/glue-down only)
• OSB PS2 rated (at least 3/4” thick) – Note: some OSB type products will not hold the nail in

place which can result in squeaky floors. This is a subfloor issue.
• Concrete slab (floating/glue-down only)
• Existing wood floor
• Ceramic tile (floating/glue-down only)
• Resilient tile & sheet vinyl (floating/glue-down only)




STARTING YOUR INSTALLATION
Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture first and is properly prepared.

Since wood expands with any increase in moisture content, always leave at least a 1/2” expansion space between flooring and all walls and any other permanent vertical objects, (such as pipes and cabinets). This space will be covered up once you reapply base moldings around the room. Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this 1/2” expansion space.

When laying flooring, stagger end joints from row to row by at least 8”. When cutting the last plank in a row to fit, you can use the cut-off end to begin the next row. If cut-off end is 8” in length or less, discard it and instead cut a new plank at a random length and use it to start the next row. Always begin each row from the same side of the room.

Work from several open boxes of flooring and “dry lay” the floor before permanently laying the floor. (But never open more than a few boxes in advance) This will allow you to select the varying grains & colors
and to arrange them in a harmonious pattern. It also allows you the opportunity to select out very dark/light pieces for use in hidden areas in order to create a more uniform floor. Remember, it is the installers’ responsibility to set the expectations of what the finished floor will look like with the end user first and then to cull out pieces that do not meet those expectations.
To draw planks together, always use a tapping block, (a short piece of flooring), and hammer, as tapping the flooring itself will result in edge damage. When near a wall, you can use a pry bar to pry close the side and end joints. Take care not to damage edge of flooring. For glue down & floating applications, use 3M Blue Tape to hold any pieces, which might have side bow and the need to hold them straight & tight until the adhesive sets up.

Begin installation next to an outside wall. This is usually the straightest and best reference for establishing a straight working line. Establish this line by measuring an equal distance from the wall at both ends and snapping a chalk line. The distance you measure from the wall should be the width of a plank plus about
1/2” for expansion space. You may need to scribe cut the first row of planks to match the wall in order to make a straight working line if the wall is out of straight.
You may want to dry lay a few rows, (no glue or nails), before starting installation to confirm your layout decision and working line.

RECOMMENDED - GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture content first and is properly prepared.

On concrete subfloors, which are on or below grade (ground level), always assume the worst and even if they measure dry, we now recommend taking the following installation steps to ensure a trouble-free installation. The cost of the precaution is little when compared to costs to rip out and replace a floor which has failed due to high moisture from the subfloor.
Method #1: We recommend installing a moisture barrier first and then gluing down our wood floor over the moisture barrier.
Method #2: We recommend several Moisture Barrier Systems on which they provide a warranty that moisture will not pass through and damage your wood flooring.
Use only approved flooring adhesives. DO NOT use water based adhesives! Follow adhesive instructions for proper trowel size and adhesive set time before beginning installation of flooring.

After spreading the adhesive and allowing the recommended flash time, lay the first row of flooring with groove facing the wall, and continue laying flooring. Always check your working lines to be sure the floor is still aligned. Use tapping block to fit planks together, but be careful not to let installed floor move on the wet adhesive while you are working.

When first section is finished, continue to spread adhesive and lay flooring section by section until installation is complete. Use a damp cloth to immediately remove any adhesive that gets on flooring surface. Warning – DO NOT allow adhesives to dry on the finished flooring as it is very difficult to remove it once dried without damaging the flooring. For info on an adhesive remover: Remember to stagger end joints from row to row.

Always leave at least a 1/2” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space.
Walk each section of flooring in order to make sure it is well bonded to the subfloor within the adhesive working time. Flooring planks on the perimeter of the room may require weight on them until adhesive cures enough to hold them down. Make sure the floor is clean from debris to avoid unwanted denting.

RECOMMENDED - STAPLE/NAIL DOWN WITH GLUE ASSIST INSTALLATION
Please note: Glue Assisted Nailing - For products wider than 5" wide, in addition to the use of mechanical fasteners, assisted glue applications is recommended by the NWFA. The glue should be a premium flooring adhesive applied in a “ends and groove” or serpentine pattern to the back of each board. Then follow the recommended fastening pattern. It is always a good idea to test a small area before starting the installation.

Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture content first and is properly prepared. Use Industrial Flooring Stapler from a recommended manufacturer – air stapler/nailer with adapter or a stapler/nailer of your choice after testing to make sure that stapling/nailing will not cause dimpling in the finished floor.

For the first and second starting rows: Lay first plank inside chalk line with grooved edge toward wall. Install entire first row in the same manner. Always leave at least a 1/2” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space. In order to affix these first rows, use screws to set a strong and straight starting row rather than face nailing. Begin the subsequent rows, and once you have installed enough flooring whereby the nailer will not move the starter row off alignment, unscrew the starter row, throw away the damaged pieces and glue down replacement boards with a construction adhesive. Set weight on top of these rows and allow them to set.

Subsequent rows: Lay by using floor nailer/stapler to blind-nail top inside edge of tongue at a 45 degree angle. Nail each board every 4-6” and within 2” of each end. Remember to stagger end joints from row to row and use a tapping block to fit boards together. It may be necessary to face-nail in doorways or tight areas where the nailer/stapler can’t fit, (or glue down in these areas and weight them while the mastic sets). The last two rows will need to be face-nailed, (or glued down), in the same manner as the first two rows.
WARNING – Stapling/nailing can cause dimpling on the face if stapled incorrectly. Always make sure to visually check the installed floor as you go to ensure that the stapling/nailing is not causing dimpling on the face. (Note: be sure to look at the face of the installed flooring at a low angle from a distance to see if dimpling is occurring as it is hard to see when directly above the floor.) If dimpling does occur, STOP and adjust the stapler/nailer shoe and angle/place of staple entry in order to avoid it. Dimpling is considered an installation error.

RECOMMENDED - FLOATING INSTALLATION
Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture content first and is properly prepared.

Laying an underlayment of polyfilm: If below or on grade, first lay a vapor barrier (e.g. 6-mil polyfilm) with seams overlapped 8”. Fasten seams every 18-24” with duct tape. Run the outside edges of film up perimeter of each wall 4” (trim after flooring installation is complete.)
Underlayment: Lay Underlayment by butting edges, not overlapping. Tape full length of the seam.

Installing the floor: Start first row with groove toward wall. Glue end joints of first row by applying a

small
but continuous bead of Flooring Tongue and Groove adhesive to bottom side of the side groove. Always leave at least a 1/2” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects such as pipes and
cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space. Lay subsequent rows of flooring by applying glue to side and end joints and fitting planks together with a tapping block. Remember to stagger end joints from row to row at least 8” apart.

Clean up any adhesive that is on the face of the floor by using a damp rag – DO NOT allow adhesive to dry on the flooring face as it is difficult to then remove without damaging the flooring face.

AFTER INSTALLATION
• If you decide to cover the floor, (to allow the other construction trades to continue working), in order to protect the floors prior to final cleanup and turnover to the owner, use rosin paper to cover the floors and only use 3M Blue Tape to hold the rosin paper to the floor. Do NOT USE plastic film or other non breathing type coverings as this can cause the floor to become damaged from humidity buildups. Also, only use the 3M Blue Tape as this tape is designed for use on finishes and other tapes may pull and damage the finish when removing it. The blue tape should not be adhered to the surface of the flooring.
• Remove expansion spacers and reinstall base and/or quarter round moldings to cover the expansion space.
• It is suggested that you buff the floor with lamb’s wool pads in order to “pull any splinters”, remove any residues and handprints/foot prints, etc. Touch up with
• Install any transition pieces that may be needed (reducer, T-moldings, nosing, etc.).
• Do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for 24 hours (if glue-down or floating).
• Dust mop or vacuum your floor to remove any dirt or debris.

PRE-FINISHED ENGINEERED HARDWOOD FLOORS

Chesapeake Flooring warrants to the original purchaser that its pre-finished floors installed in accordance with industry standards and instructions not to wear through or, if engineered, not to delaminate for twenty-five (25) years from the date of original purchase, when used under normal residential traffic and other conditions provided that there is continuance compliance with the preventive maintenance and regular maintenance programs prescribed in the World Floor Covering Association Maintenance Guidelines and with the other provisions set forth below.

Chesapeake Flooring also warrants to the original purchaser that its pre-finished floors in its original manufactured and installed condition and installed in accordance with industry standards and our instructions are free of any manufacturing defects caused by improper milling, grading, dimension and coating for the lifetime of the floor, when used under normal residential traffic and other conditions provided that there is continuance compliance with the preventive maintenance and regular maintenance programs prescribed in the World Floor Covering Association Maintenance Guidelines and with the other provisions set forth below.

RADIANT HEAT

Chesapeake Flooring products are NOT meant for radiant heat installations unless the product is clearly marked as suitable for radiant Heat installations.
REMEDY

The only remedy for defective flooring covered by any of the above warranties shall be, at Chesapeake Flooring’s sole option, the repair or replacement of such defective flooring or the return of the original purchase price of the defective flooring.
ADDITIONAL TERMS AND CONDITIONS

These warranties apply only if the following six (6) conditions are met:
1. The original consumer who purchased the floor is making the warranty claim;
2. That claim is for the flooring located at the original site of installation, in its original Manufactured condition (that is, properly installed, reasonable wear and use excepted);
3. The floor has been used for residential use only;
4. There has been full compliance with all of the other provisions of these limited Warranties, without exception;
5. Consumer purchase has been fully paid for; and
6. Chesapeake Flooring receives the claim within six (6) months of the occurrence of the alleged defect from the date of original purchase. These warranties are not transferable and may not be altered by any dealer, installer, agent or distributor of Chesapeake Flooring, or anyone else.
Do not install defective flooring. The installer and homeowner are responsible to inspect the flooring prior to installation. Defects discoverable prior to installation shall be conclusively deemed to be waived after installation

Disclaimers [read these carefully]

The foregoing is the complete and exclusive statement of the express warranties provided and is in lieu of all the other express, implied and/or statutory warranties. Chesapeake Flooring makes absolutely no warranty of any kind, express or implied, whether of merchantability, fitness for any particular purpose, or otherwise, except as stated in these limited warranties. Chesapeake Flooring has no other obligations of any kind to anyone. Chesapeake Flooring will not compensate anyone for any claims, losses or damages of any kind during the applicable limited warranty period or otherwise except as stated expressly in these limited warranties. All of our obligations end when the applicable limited warranty period is over. Chesapeake Flooring shall not be liable to anyone for any incidental, special or consequential damages, labor costs, loss of income or profits for any defect or for any claim arising out of any alleged breach of (1) these limited warranties, or (2) any implied warranty, or (3) any other theory, law or otherwise.

Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental, special or consequential damages, or the exclusion or limitation of implied warranties, so such exclusions or limitations may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have other rights that vary from state to state.

WARRANTY EXCLUSIONS [READ THESE CAREFULLY]
These warranties do not cover the following:
1. Improper transportation, handling or storage.
2. Indentations, scratches or damage caused by negligence, water, sand, everyday wear, abuse, pets, spiked heel or cleated shoes or the equivalent, or wet, excessively damp or equivalent mopping.
3. Color changes from exposure to light which are considered natural in wood floors.
4. Failure to provide proper environmental conditions, including but not limited to maintaining proper humidity levels. [Surface checking or cracking may result from a condition of low humidity, and mildew, cupping, crowning and/or discoloration may result from a condition of high humidity.]
5. Failure to follow manufacturer’s installation instructions, including but not limited to failure to use approved adhesive [Urethane adhesive must be used for the installation of engineered wood floors] or install a moisture barrier.
6. Improper installation or workmanship.
7. Improper care and maintenance. [Never use any household or furniture “dust remover,’ “polish or similar product; never use any oil-based cleaner, wax, polish or similar product; never use any detergent, soap, steel wool, scouring pad or the like; never use any ammoniated cleaner or abrasive cleaner.]
8. Normal expansion and contraction that solid wood floors may experience between boards at different times during the year. [If minor separations do occur, they are not covered by this warranty.]
9. Grading differences up to 5% of the square footage ordered. [Order 5% to 7% more flooring than actually needed by measurement to cover this allowance.]
10. Milling differences up to 5% of the square footage ordered. [Order 5% to 7% more flooring than actually needed by measurement to cover
this allowance.]
11. Surface and other cosmetic differences (such as but not limited to discoloration and knots) up to 5% of the square footage ordered. [Order 5% to 7% more flooring than actually needed by measurement to cover this allowance.]
12. Defects in manufacture that cross-cutting and other adjustments on-site during installation can resolve up to 5% of the square footage ordered. [Order 5% to 7% more flooring than actually needed by measurement to cover this allowance.]
13. Normal color and grain variation. [Wood is a natural product and variations in color, grain, pattern and texture normally occur in original materials and are not considered defects. No two pieces are the same and the same species can vary in color and grain.]
14. Deviations from samples supplied by dealers/contractors.
15. Color Fastness. [All woods are sensitive to light/or oxygen, and over time, will change color, developing a unique patina. Native species, such as cherry, darken over time; walnut, on the other hand,

lightens. In general, a water based finish tends to inhibit the degree of change, while an oil based finish allows a more pronounced change to occur.]
16. Failure to protect flooring from furniture, furnishings, accessories, sharp or heavy objects, dirt, grit, sand or other abrasives, pets and appliances.
17. New or replacement flooring are not warranted to match pre-existing flooring.
18. Surface wear in high-traffic areas such as doorways, hallways, in front of appliances, sinks or the like.
19. Damage caused by accident, casualty, environmental conditions, flooding, or exposure to any contaminant.
20. Removal or replacement of cabinetry, appliances, built-ins, etc.
21. Settlement of the building or structural changes in the sub-floor.
22. The use of floor products not recommended by Chesapeake Flooring Inc may void these warranties.
23. Non-payment for the flooring involved will void these warranties.
24. Any condition, circumstance, event or conduct beyond the control of Chesapeake Flooring Inc. .
25. Squeaking or cracking by any cause OTHER THAN as a result of improper manufacturing.
26. Any condition of the flooring resulting from excessive or inadequate humidity – relative humidity before, during and after installation must be and remain at between - 30% to 50%. It is the purchaser’s responsibility to ensure installation climate meets this criteria. Installation errors and pattern allowances.

Chesapeake Flooring is not responsible for any installation errors. Installers should allow a sufficient waste factor to allow for errors and the pattern selected. If a reoccurring problem occurs or waste on account of accumulated defects is excessive, stop immediately and call the authorized Chesapeake Flooring distributor to have the problem reviewed before proceeding.

Floor Care – Urethane-based Prefinished Solid and Engineered Floors

Today’s wood flooring is manufactured using the latest technologically in advanced, factory applied, U.V. cured, acrylic urethane finishes. With a high build finish, our floors offer a durable finish that repels most household chemicals and are extremely easy to maintain.

Our factory applied finish is compatible with Bona Kemi’s floor care and finish products. Bona Kemi is one of the most respected finish manufacturers in the industry and offers a wide selection of on-site finishing options as well as a full range of maintenance products, all of which are readily available from your flooring distributor. For further information you may go to Bona Kemi’s web site at www.bonakemi.com/maintenance.




For additional Maintenance Recommendations visit The National Wood Flooring Association’s site at www.nwfa.org

Although wood floors are tough, they are not indestructible and can be scratched and damaged from improper use and care. We offer the following suggestions to maximize the enjoyment of your floor.


An Ounce of Prevention is worth !

As with any floor covering material, a bit of preventative care and some common sense will go a long way in keeping your floor looking its best. Following are a few suggested “do’s & don’ts”:

Floor Care
Do’s - Do’s - Do’s - Do’s - Do’s

o Obtain a touch up kit with fill sticks and markers that match the color of your floor. Every floor will have nicks, chips, dents, scratches, etc. Using a touch up will help keep your floor looking new.

o At all entryways, provide outside mats to keep dirt and grit off the floor. Inside, you may wish to consider using an additional mat or area rug to further prevent the inside tracking of dirt. Remember, sand and grit will scratch and wear any finish!

o Sweep or vacuum as often as necessary to remove any loose dirt or grit before it can scratch the floor. NEVER use the vacuum’s beater bar which will scratch the prefinished surface.

o When moving any appliances, heavy furniture, or other heavy objects slip a blanket or scrap of carpet, face down, under each foot of the object and then carefully slide the object over the floor. This will help avoid scratching and gouging.

o Use floor protectors on the legs of all furniture to prevent gouging and scratching. In addition, certain types of casters on furniture legs may damage hardwood flooring. The wide barrel type of caster works best. If your furniture does not have the correct type of caster, we recommend changing them. Floor protectors may be purchased at your local hardware store.

o Wipe up spills as soon as possible as water from spills can cause damage to any wood floor. Using an approved liquid cleaner to clean the entire floor is recommended but only periodically. The floor can be compromised if it is cleaned too often even with approved liquid cleaners.

o To avoid excessive shrinkage, cracking, swelling or cupping, you should keep the relative humidity ideally between the normal interior range of 45% and 55%, but certainly between 35% and 65%. This can be accomplished through the use of a dehumidifier/humidifier and/or air conditioning. (Your local hardware store sells inexpensive combination thermometers/humidity gauges, also known as Hygrometers, to monitor the relative humidity levels).

o In areas of excessive traffic and wear, please make use of runners or area rugs.
 If wear starts to develop in the finish in high traffic locations, these areas should be periodically refinished. Re-coating prior to total wear through of the finish will reduce the need for a complete re-sanding and refinishing. Contact your flooring professional for their expert advice on how to refinish worn areas.

o As the wood in your new floor ages, it can change in color as it gains its final character and patina. Certain species of wood, such as cherry, change color more than others. You should periodically move area carpets and furniture, especially in areas of direct sunlight, in
order to allow the floor to age and change color more uniformly.

Floor Care
Don’ts - Don’ts - Don’ts - Don’ts - Don’ts - Don’ts

o Do not allow dirt and grit to scratch your floor. Making use of entry floor mats and regular vacuuming of any grit and dirt that does reach the floor will help prevent scratching and wear.

o Do not overuse approved liquid cleaners. This overuse can wear the urethane layer faster than normal, change the gloss or appearance of the floor, distress and open wood character, etc.

o Do not allow water to stand on your floor at any time. When using the recommended cleaner, apply using a soft microfiber cloth and continue to wipe until dry. Water will cause cupping, swelling, delamination of veneer plies, and gapping. Also, when mopping your floor or cleaning up spills, do not over-wet your floor, as it will damage the wood. Only use a slightly damp mop or rag/sponge when cleaning. Also, never use so called “oil soap” type cleaners as many of these are actually water based and soaking the floor with one is the same as soaking the floor with water! Do not use a steam cleaner on the floor.

o Do not allow the relative humidity to drop below 35% or rise above 65%, as this may cause swelling, cupping or shrinking related problems.

o Do not allow “spike heel” type shoes to indent wood floors, especially if the heel tip is damaged or has lost its rubber pad.

o Do not allow improperly padded or unprotected furniture legs to damage your floor.

o Do not use ammonia, pine soap, oil soap, chlorine bleach or any abrasive cleaners that might scratch or react with urethane finishes. Contact the cleaner company to determine if its product will work with Urethane-based finishes.

o Do not wax your floor. On our factory pre-finished floors, finished with U.V. cured Acrylic Urethane, we do not recommend the use of any waxes, as these may make the floor slippery and dull the finish. Also, if the floor is ever waxed, it will be necessary to sand the entire waxed floor to bare wood before re-coating, should it ever need renewing. Left unwaxed, a light screening and recoat would be all that is required to renew the finish on an unwaxed floor.