Bar Harbor Chesapeake Atlantic Hardwood

Dimensions: 3/8" x 7 1/2" x Random Lengths 12" To 72"
Construction: Plank
Species/Design: European White Oak Engineered Hardwood
Coverage: 40.94/SQ.FT
Edge Style: Micro-Beveled
Finish: Urethane
Install Method: Glue, Float, Staple, Nail
Where to install: All Grade Levels
Surface Type: Brushed
Warranty: 25 Years

Quarter Round
Reducer
Stair Nose
Threshold
T Molding

INSTALLER/OWNER RESPONSIBILITIES
Hardwood flooring is a product of nature and its inherent beauty stems from the fact that each piece is unique with no two pieces the same. Due to the fact that this flooring is a product of nature, the installer and/or owner, have the following responsibilities:
1) Understanding how the floor will look once installed – the installer and owner must meet prior to
installation to review:
a. How was the floor chosen? Review the control samples, (the samples from which the floor was chosen), and compare to the actual flooring batch onsite prior to installation
making sure it meets the owner’s expectations as to:
i. Grade – is it the correct grade? Also grade from batch to batch may vary slightly so make su re the owner is happy with this batch of flooring you are about to install.
ii. Color/Graining - do certain dark/light pieces or wild grained need to be graded out to meet the owner’s expectations?
iii. Color Variation, Batch to Batch – inspect the production run of flooring you received and make sure it meets your expectations. Wood from different locales can have varying colors and grains and differ from the samples from which the floor was chosen. Tint colors may also vary slightly batch to batch. Make sure the owner will be happy with the batch they received.
iv. Color Change - do they understand how the wood will change color over time? The owner may have chosen their floor from samples that have aged so they need to understand in advance of installation the color change to be expected in this wood.
v. Finish issues – Is the gloss correct? Does the look of the finish meet the owner’s expectations? Does the owner understand that the finish will scratch, and wear and that care
must be taken during the installation, move-in and in-use?
Congratulations! You have now made sure that the owner will not be disappointed once the flooring is installed and they see it for the first time!! The person installing the floor is responsible for visual issues once the flooring is installed.
2) Installer responsibilities during installation:
a. Receive the floor & make sure it is as ordered and meets the owner’s expectations.
b. Test the subfloor and relative humidity on site to make sure the flooring will perform satisfactorily on this installation.
c. Follow these Installation Instructions.
d. Grade out any pieces with visible defects and stop the installation should a reoccurring problem be found, (over the 5% allowed by industry practices). DO NOT INSTALL pieces with visible defects.
3) Keep a Permanent Job Record
4) Make sure the owner understands that wood and water, (as well as overly dry conditions), do not mix as wood flooring is a natural material and will shrink/cup/move when over-dried and will expand/swell, delaminate, warp and buckle/cup when over-wetted.
5) Make sure the owner (and their cleaning service, if applicable) understands how to maintain the floor. Give them a copy of the Maintenance Instructions & Product Warranty.

WARNING: Our flooring is well manufactured and is designed to perform within the typical residential environment. We are not responsible for site conditions, as we do not control them. Only you, the installer can test and correct for too dry or too wet site conditions prior to installation. Note: Wood flooring installed in areas where the relative humidity is below 35% may cup, shrink in width/length, finish peel, or crack and in these dry conditions a humidifier is necessary to bring relative humidity above 35%. Flooring installed on top of wet sub floors may crown (and then cup), swell (and then shrink), buckle, telegraph, crack/check, finish peel, or edge/tip raise. Flooring that is soaked from above will do the same. DO NOT INSTALL THIS FLOORING ON WET SUBFLOORS OR IN OVERLY DRY
CONDITIONS without first correcting any deficient conditions.

PRE-INSTALLATION JOBSITE REQUIREMENTS
The HVAC must be running prior to beginning the installation.
Carefully examine the flooring prior to installation for grade, color, finish and quality. Ensure adequate lighting for proper inspection and make sure you review all different lots of material before beginning. If flooring is not acceptable, contact your distributor immediately and arrange for replacement. We are not responsible for flooring installed with visible defects. Prior to installation of any flooring, the installer must ensure that the jobsite and subfloor meet the requirements of these instructions. We are not responsible for flooring failure resulting from unsatisfactory jobsite and/or subfloor conditions.

Hardwood flooring should be one of the last items installed for any new construction or remodel project. All work involving water or moisture should be completed before flooring installation. Warning – water and wood do not mix. Installing flooring onto a wet subfloor will likely cause cupping, tip & edge raising, telegraphing of core and subsequent gapping.

Room temperature and humidity of installation area should be consistent with normal, year-round living conditions for at least a week before installation of wood flooring. Room temperature of 65-75°F and a humidity range of 35-65% is recommended. Warning - humidity levels below 35% will likely cause movement in the flooring, including gapping between pieces and possible cupping and checking in the face.

We cannot be held responsible for site conditions. Flooring formats, such as plywood based engineered wood flooring, are susceptible to showing movement such as edge/end shrinking and face checking from low relative humidity below 35% on site and/or tip raising and subsequent end shrinking if installed over a wet subfloor.

Store the wood flooring, in the UNOPENED boxes, at installation area for 24 -72 hours before installation to allow flooring to adjust to room temperature. Do not store the boxes of flooring directly on concrete.
In most areas of the country, engineered wood floors DO NOT need any moisture equalization prior to installation and should be installed from just opened boxes. DO NOT OPEN more than a few boxes in advance of installation and only the number of boxes which will be installed within the next few hours.



PRE-INSTALLATION SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
All Subfloor must be:
• Structurally sound
• Clean: Thoroughly swept and free of all debris (If being glued down, subfloor must be free from wax, grease, paint, sealers, & old adhesives etc., which can be removed by sanding)
• Level: Flat to 3/16” per 10-foot radius
• Dry and will remain dry: Subfloor must remain dry year-round. Moisture content of wood sub floors must not exceed 11%, concrete must not exceed 75% using an in-situ RH probe, 3lbs using a calcium chloride test, and 3.5 as measured with a Commercial Concrete Moisture Meter
Wood Sub Floors must be dry and well secured. Nail or screw every 6” along joists to avoid squeaking. If not level, sand down high spots and fill low spots with an underlayment patch. Must accept and hold both cleats or staples using a nail-down installation method.

Concrete Sub Floors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have minimum 6-mil polyfilm between concrete and ground. Subfloor should be flat and level within 3/16” on 10’. If necessary grind high spots down and level low spots with leveling compound.
Do not install on concrete unless YOU ARE SURE it stays dry year-round. All concrete should be tested for moisture using an in-situ RH probe (result must be 75% or less) or Calcium Chloride testing (result must be 3 lbs per 1000sf or less). If uncertain the subfloor will remain dry, we recommend using a vapor barrier.

It is highly recommended, that if gluing down on concrete, (even if you believe it is dry), which is on or below grade, to install a moisture barrier first and then glue the wood flooring on top.

Remember, a concrete slab on /below grade that measures dry today may become moist in the future due to rising groundwater. Installing a moisture barrier now may be viewed as an insurance policy against concrete becoming wet in the future. This will lead to subsequent floor failure. The manufacturer is not responsible for site related moisture issues.

Ceramic tile, resilient tile and sheet vinyl covered Subfloors must be well-bonded to subfloor, in good condition, clean and level. Do not sand existing vinyl floors, as they may contain asbestos.
Radiant heat: When a product is approved for radiant heat, use only floating installation over radiant heat. Subfloor should never exceed 8o°F. A data logger may be required for this product over radiant heat. Check with radiant heat manufacturer’s suggested guidelines to limit the maximum water temperature inside heating pipes. Switch off heating unit one or two days before flooring installation and bring heat up slowly after installation.




INSTALLATION TOOLS
For all installation methods:
• Tape measure
• Tapping block (or trimmed piece of flooring)
• Pencil
• Pry bar
• Chalk line
• Wood or plastic spacers (1/2”)
• Crosscut power saw
• Hammer

For the recommended glue-down installation method, you’ll also need:
• Flooring adhesive manufacturers
(Note: Use only urethane or silane adhesives – DO NOT USE water based mastics as they can cause this floor to fail)
• On concrete slabs, which are on/below grade, we recommend installing a moisture barrier first and then installing the wood floor on the moisture barrier or using an approved Adhesive Brand Moisture Barrier System
• Trowel per flooring adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.

For nail-down and glue assist installation, you will also need:
• Industrial Flooring Stapler or Nailer with adapter shoe to assure the proper position for the nail/staple
• 1-1/2” to 2” long staples (20 gauge)
• 1-1/2” L-shaped cleats (20 gauge) – 1-1/4” is acceptable if the cleat has a barbed edge
Please Note: the fastener length must be at least 1-1/2” in length (1” is not acceptable) some OSB Subfloors do not provide sufficient fastener holding power. In this case adhesive should be applied to the back side of the board mainly under the groove.
• Air compressor
• Flooring Adhesive - for Glue Assisted Nailing. Products wider than 5" wide, in addition to the use of mechanical fasteners, assisted glue applications is recommended by the NWFA. The glue should be specifically designed for flooring and applied in a serpentine pattern to the back of each board or in a straight line along the groove side edge of each board and along the ends. Then follow the recommended fastening pattern.

For floating installation, you’ll also need:
• Underlayment
• Flooring Tongue and Groove adhesive

Acceptable Subfloor types:
• Plywood (at least 3/4” thick)
• Underlayment grade particleboard -floating/glue-down only)
• OSB PS2 rated (at least 3/4” thick) – Note: some OSB type products will not hold the nail in

place which can result in squeaky floors. This is a subfloor issue.
• Concrete slab (floating/glue-down only)
• Existing wood floor
• Ceramic tile (floating/glue-down only)
• Resilient tile & sheet vinyl (floating/glue-down only)




STARTING YOUR INSTALLATION
Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture first and is properly prepared.

Since wood expands with any increase in moisture content, always leave at least a 1/2” expansion space between flooring and all walls and any other permanent vertical objects, (such as pipes and cabinets). This space will be covered up once you reapply base moldings around the room. Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this 1/2” expansion space.

When laying flooring, stagger end joints from row to row by at least 8”. When cutting the last plank in a row to fit, you can use the cut-off end to begin the next row. If cut-off end is 8” in length or less, discard it and instead cut a new plank at a random length and use it to start the next row. Always begin each row from the same side of the room.

Work from several open boxes of flooring and “dry lay” the floor before permanently laying the floor. (But never open more than a few boxes in advance) This will allow you to select the varying grains & colors
and to arrange them in a harmonious pattern. It also allows you the opportunity to select out very dark/light pieces for use in hidden areas in order to create a more uniform floor. Remember, it is the installers’ responsibility to set the expectations of what the finished floor will look like with the end user first and then to cull out pieces that do not meet those expectations.
To draw planks together, always use a tapping block, (a short piece of flooring), and hammer, as tapping the flooring itself will result in edge damage. When near a wall, you can use a pry bar to pry close the side and end joints. Take care not to damage edge of flooring. For glue down & floating applications, use 3M Blue Tape to hold any pieces, which might have side bow and the need to hold them straight & tight until the adhesive sets up.

Begin installation next to an outside wall. This is usually the straightest and best reference for establishing a straight working line. Establish this line by measuring an equal distance from the wall at both ends and snapping a chalk line. The distance you measure from the wall should be the width of a plank plus about
1/2” for expansion space. You may need to scribe cut the first row of planks to match the wall in order to make a straight working line if the wall is out of straight.
You may want to dry lay a few rows, (no glue or nails), before starting installation to confirm your layout decision and working line.

RECOMMENDED - GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture content first and is properly prepared.

On concrete subfloors, which are on or below grade (ground level), always assume the worst and even if they measure dry, we now recommend taking the following installation steps to ensure a trouble-free installation. The cost of the precaution is little when compared to costs to rip out and replace a floor which has failed due to high moisture from the subfloor.
Method #1: We recommend installing a moisture barrier first and then gluing down our wood floor over the moisture barrier.
Method #2: We recommend several Moisture Barrier Systems on which they provide a warranty that moisture will not pass through and damage your wood flooring.
Use only approved flooring adhesives. DO NOT use water based adhesives! Follow adhesive instructions for proper trowel size and adhesive set time before beginning installation of flooring.

After spreading the adhesive and allowing the recommended flash time, lay the first row of flooring with groove facing the wall, and continue laying flooring. Always check your working lines to be sure the floor is still aligned. Use tapping block to fit planks together, but be careful not to let installed floor move on the wet adhesive while you are working.

When first section is finished, continue to spread adhesive and lay flooring section by section until installation is complete. Use a damp cloth to immediately remove any adhesive that gets on flooring surface. Warning – DO NOT allow adhesives to dry on the finished flooring as it is very difficult to remove it once dried without damaging the flooring. For info on an adhesive remover: Remember to stagger end joints from row to row.

Always leave at least a 1/2” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space.
Walk each section of flooring in order to make sure it is well bonded to the subfloor within the adhesive working time. Flooring planks on the perimeter of the room may require weight on them until adhesive cures enough to hold them down. Make sure the floor is clean from debris to avoid unwanted denting.

RECOMMENDED - STAPLE/NAIL DOWN WITH GLUE ASSIST INSTALLATION
Please note: Glue Assisted Nailing - For products wider than 5" wide, in addition to the use of mechanical fasteners, assisted glue applications is recommended by the NWFA. The glue should be a premium flooring adhesive applied in a “ends and groove” or serpentine pattern to the back of each board. Then follow the recommended fastening pattern. It is always a good idea to test a small area before starting the installation.

Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture content first and is properly prepared. Use Industrial Flooring Stapler from a recommended manufacturer – air stapler/nailer with adapter or a stapler/nailer of your choice after testing to make sure that stapling/nailing will not cause dimpling in the finished floor.

For the first and second starting rows: Lay first plank inside chalk line with grooved edge toward wall. Install entire first row in the same manner. Always leave at least a 1/2” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space. In order to affix these first rows, use screws to set a strong and straight starting row rather than face nailing. Begin the subsequent rows, and once you have installed enough flooring whereby the nailer will not move the starter row off alignment, unscrew the starter row, throw away the damaged pieces and glue down replacement boards with a construction adhesive. Set weight on top of these rows and allow them to set.

Subsequent rows: Lay by using floor nailer/stapler to blind-nail top inside edge of tongue at a 45 degree angle. Nail each board every 4-6” and within 2” of each end. Remember to stagger end joints from row to row and use a tapping block to fit boards together. It may be necessary to face-nail in doorways or tight areas where the nailer/stapler can’t fit, (or glue down in these areas and weight them while the mastic sets). The last two rows will need to be face-nailed, (or glued down), in the same manner as the first two rows.
WARNING – Stapling/nailing can cause dimpling on the face if stapled incorrectly. Always make sure to visually check the installed floor as you go to ensure that the stapling/nailing is not causing dimpling on the face. (Note: be sure to look at the face of the installed flooring at a low angle from a distance to see if dimpling is occurring as it is hard to see when directly above the floor.) If dimpling does occur, STOP and adjust the stapler/nailer shoe and angle/place of staple entry in order to avoid it. Dimpling is considered an installation error.

RECOMMENDED - FLOATING INSTALLATION
Make sure subfloor is tested for moisture content first and is properly prepared.

Laying an underlayment of polyfilm: If below or on grade, first lay a vapor barrier (e.g. 6-mil polyfilm) with seams overlapped 8”. Fasten seams every 18-24” with duct tape. Run the outside edges of film up perimeter of each wall 4” (trim after flooring installation is complete.)
Underlayment: Lay Underlayment by butting edges, not overlapping. Tape full length of the seam.

Installing the floor: Start first row with groove toward wall. Glue end joints of first row by applying a

small
but continuous bead of Flooring Tongue and Groove adhesive to bottom side of the side groove. Always leave at least a 1/2” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects such as pipes and
cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space. Lay subsequent rows of flooring by applying glue to side and end joints and fitting planks together with a tapping block. Remember to stagger end joints from row to row at least 8” apart.

Clean up any adhesive that is on the face of the floor by using a damp rag – DO NOT allow adhesive to dry on the flooring face as it is difficult to then remove without damaging the flooring face.

AFTER INSTALLATION
• If you decide to cover the floor, (to allow the other construction trades to continue working), in order to protect the floors prior to final cleanup and turnover to the owner, use rosin paper to cover the floors and only use 3M Blue Tape to hold the rosin paper to the floor. Do NOT USE plastic film or other non breathing type coverings as this can cause the floor to become damaged from humidity buildups. Also, only use the 3M Blue Tape as this tape is designed for use on finishes and other tapes may pull and damage the finish when removing it. The blue tape should not be adhered to the surface of the flooring.
• Remove expansion spacers and reinstall base and/or quarter round moldings to cover the expansion space.
• It is suggested that you buff the floor with lamb’s wool pads in order to “pull any splinters”, remove any residues and handprints/foot prints, etc. Touch up with
• Install any transition pieces that may be needed (reducer, T-moldings, nosing, etc.).
• Do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for 24 hours (if glue-down or floating).
• Dust mop or vacuum your floor to remove any dirt or debris.

The Properties of Wood – WATER and WOOD DO NOT MIX

All wood flooring is constructed of either solid wood (just one piece in thickness), or engineered wood (comprised of several layers of wood joined by adhesive). As such, because wood is a hydroscopic, it reacts with water in much the same way your kitchen sponge does:
1. It will absorb moisture when exposed to water either in liquid form or vapor form. Water can come from the atmosphere (relative humidity) and/or from the subfloor (concrete, plywood, etc.)
2. When it does absorb water, wood swells in size and may cup/crown.

3. When it dries out, wood shrinks in size and may also cup.

The only difference between engineered wood flooring and solid wood flooring is that engineered flooring because it is bonded in alternating layers with the grain in each layer in an opposite direction, makes the wood somewhat more stable, (partially limiting how much the floor swells/shrinks), than solid wood flooring.
However, engineered wood flooring still shrinks and swells as it gains or loses moisture! And just like a sponge, wood flooring can crown or cup depending on how much and from where the floor gains or loses moisture.
Each wood shrinks and swells at a lesser or greater rate unique to each species. This is a simple mathematic formula and most species have been tested and recorded by the US Forest Products Laboratory. For each gain of 1% of moisture content a certain species of wood will gain X% in width. This formula simply represents the physical laws that apply to that individual species of wood, and they are immutable.
So, the bottom line is, no manufacturer warrants wood flooring to be impervious to water! The Properties of Finishes
All finishes, even with constant improvements to durability, will scratch and dent. For example, if you drag something heavy across the floor you will scratch the finish and perhaps even get under the finish itself and scratch/gouge the underlying wood, while you also may pull the overlying finish off.
All finishes will dent when pressed hard enough. Depending on the hardness of the wood underneath the finish, the wood itself will dent to the degree in direct proportion to the wood’s hardness.
All finishes will wear from abrasion. If you allow sand and grit to lie on the floor, foot traffic will grind the finish down. Excessive foot traffic will also do the same over time. Initially the finish will dull in these areas.
Eventually, the finish will wear down to bare wood if not recoated beforehand.

So the bottom line is, once again, no flooring manufacturer warrants their finish to be impervious to wear, much less abuse and all have a long list of what they consider abuse. Please see section below on Warranty Killers.

However, the good news is the ongoing finish revolution. There have been vast technological improvements to flooring finishes with continued advances being made each day. Finish wear-ability has increased and new formulas are coming on the market all the time. This is the result of adding hard particles to the finish and from the use of new harder resins. While all this improvement brings finished flooring closer to imperviousness, finishes still aren’t there yet. Now to the Fine Print!
The Usual Fine Print

Here is what typically is excluded in the fine print from the so-called “Lifetime Warranties” which many manufacturers tout today.
On Wood:

1) Engineered Wood Flooring – will not delaminate – (only if not soaked in water, either from below/above).

2) Engineered Wood Flooring – will not move – (only if not soaked in water from above or below and if installed on a site that is maintained with a relative humidity between 35% and 65%).
On Finish:

1) Will not peel/blister – (only if not soaked in water, steam cleaned, or exposed to chemicals/sol- vents/alkalines/acids).
2) Will not wear through to bare wood – (residential use only & only if proper maintenance procedures are followed, meaning keep them clean and free from grit and, in addition, many manufacturers require recoating when showing first signs of wear).
The Warranty Killers

Here is what is included in the fine print as warranty “killers” by most manufacturers:

1) Soaking in water from above or below.

2) Wet mopping & failure to clean up spills.

3) Steam cleaner used in any way.

4) Wet subfloor.

5) Relative humidity at site below 35% or above 65%.

6) Failure to protect the floors from sand/grit, pets, high heels, chair/furniture w/o protectors, lack of mats at entry ways, excessive foot traffic, household chemicals, abrasive cleaners, steam cleaners, excessive sunlight, excessive heat, etc.
Also, one should know most finish warranties don’t consider a change in sheen/gloss levels to be a defect – only peeling or complete wear through is.

Conclusion

So the answer to the question - Is one manufacturer’s warranty of “Lifetime” better than another at ten years? - or is that the Lifetime Warranty is only slightly better. This is due to the fact that almost all causes for possible product failure (other than manufacturing process failures such as finish adhesion and glue bonds, which almost always appear within one year) are excluded in the fine print anyway.
And, as most reputable flooring manufacturers quickly take advantage of the new improvements to finishes and engineering as they become available from their suppliers, most similar flooring products are roughly equal in performance, regardless of warranty.
Our approach to warranties is to be realistic about product performance and equally open about our warranty and its limitations. Our fine print is reserved only for legalese.
We are also committed to using the latest technological advances in finish and engineering as they become available, always offering the finest flooring on the market.
Warranty Overview

What is covered under this Limited Warranty?

Prefinished Engineered Wood Flooring – except MultiPly Sold “as is”, without warranty, or as cabin grade, or as shop grade and so noted on the invoice.
Who is covered under this Limited Warranty?

The original buyer/installation site owner when the flooring is used in a residential (as opposed to commercial) setting. (Note: This warranty is non-transferable to subsequent owners.)
What Installation Instructions should be followed?

Contact your retailer or the company from which you bought the material to get a copy of the latest information regarding the warranty of this product.
What Maintenance Instructions should be followed?

Contact your retailer or the company from which you bought the material to get a copy of the latest maintenance instructions for this product.

Pre-Installation Warranty
• The manufacturer will, at its option, either replace or refund the purchase price of any flooring found to be defective, prior to installation, in excess of the 5% of miss-milled/miss-graded/miss-finished product allowed to be included under Standard Industry Trade Practices.
• The manufacturer will, at its option, either replace or refund, upon return to the manufacturer, the purchase price of any uninstalled flooring found to be at a higher moisture content, when taken from the plastic sealed carton, than the 6 - 9.5% moisture content the manufacturer represents the flooring to be produced to.
Note: It is the installer’s responsibility to check the moisture content first and deem it acceptable for the site. The installer must also inspect the flooring as it is installed and set aside or cross-cut out defects found prior to installation. Once the flooring has been installed, the installer has deemed the flooring acceptable and the manufacturer assumes no further responsibility for defects visible at the time of installation which have been installed anyway.
Post-Installation Warranties

Finish Warranty:

Pre-finished flooring is flooring supplied with a film finish already applied at the Factory. Industry Standards allow up to 5% of the flooring shipped, to contain milling, handling, and grade defects as well as occasional finish defects.
• The manufacturer warrants to the original purchaser, that for a period of 27 years from the date of purchase that the finish shall not peel or blister from the floor under normal Residential, (as opposed to Commercial), use conditions - see exceptions below.
• The manufacturer warrants that the finish will not wear through to the bare wood for a period of 27 years from the date of purchase under normal Residential, (as opposed to (Commercial), use conditions – see exceptions below. Note: changes in Gloss level are not considered a defect.
Rescreening Warranty:

• The manufacturer warrants this flooring can be re-screened / refinished one time by a professional refinisher, (for repair purposes/to change stain color) – see exceptions below.
Structural Warranty:

• The manufacturer offers a lifetime structural warranty to the original purchaser. This floor will not delaminate under normal use conditions – please be sure to:
1. Follow the latest copy of the Product Installation Instructions (from inside the carton or from the retailer) and do not install this flooring in unsuitable (wet/dry) conditions.
2. Follow the Product Maintenance Instructions as issues will occur if the wrong products are used and the floor is not properly protected

Installer’s Responsibilities:
It is the installer’s responsibility to follow correct Product Installation Instructions, which include complete instructions, in much greater detail than outlined below, on the following topics:
• Inspect the flooring upon arrival to ensure:
1. you received the quantity, species, grade and size flooring you ordered.
2. there was not any handling damage or water damage in transit
• Prepare an installation plan, based on testing, at the flooring site, of both the subfloor for acceptable moisture content and the site atmosphere for the proper range of relative humidity. The installer must keep a record, which lists the results of all the tests taken. Request a copy of NWFA’s Job site Checklist on which to record these results, as the manufacturer will request a copy of the job record in reviewing any claims made against this warranty.
• Make sure the flooring received meets the buyer’s expectations prior to installation and they approve such issues as:
1. the color/grain range and the color change to be expected in the specie chosen and how the freshly installed floor may vary in look from the aged samples from which their selection was made.
2. establish that the site and sub floor are suitable for the installation method chosen and advise the buyer of, and correct any deficiencies prior to commencing installation.
Install the flooring properly. This includes:

• Use of the proper moisture barrier / underlayment, mastic, glue, or nails/staples.
• Perform adequate color/grain selecting as you install the floor, so as to not install “odd colored/grained” pieces in conspicuous places, as the owner may reject them later.
• Protect the flooring and the finish during installation and protect the flooring afterwards from construction and move-in foot traffic to minimize scratching, wear, and construction debris.
• Instruct the end user in proper floor & maintenance care as well as the need to maintain proper relative humidity levels at the site. We recommend installing a Data Logger to assure that the environment has been kept according to the warranties requirements.
What is not covered under this Limited Warranty includes but is not limited to:

• Claims made on pieces of flooring installed with visible defects as it is the installer’s responsibility to set aside pieces with visible defects and not use them. Flooring, once installed, is considered acceptable by both the installer and buyer.
• Claims made on pieces of flooring installed with excessive color, grain variation, or wood character as it was the installer’s responsibility to inspect the flooring prior to installation and install the floor in a random and harmonious mix.
• Color changes in the wood as it ages or from exposure to sunlight.
• Variation in the color/graining/grade of the installed floor from showroom samples, as the samples most likely will have aged and changed in color, gaining the patina of a partially or fully aged floor. Some grades cannot show all examples of the wood character due to the limited size of the sample board.

• Excessive swelling and/or shrinkage or other movement, such as cupping & delamination, in the flooring caused by a change in the moisture content due to extreme dryness/ humidity on the site which is outside the recommended 35% - 65% relative humidity range to be maintained for this product.
• Finish peel, excessive swelling, cupping &/or delamination in the flooring caused by an increase of moisture content in the wood from moisture sources below the floor such as a wet sub-floor, or from moisture from above from such sources as spills, excessive wet mopping, pets, etc.
• Insects if it occurs subsequent to the date on which the product passes out of the manufacturer’s control.
• Damage, excessive movement or defects caused by:
1. improper shipping, handling and/or storage after the product leaves the manufacturer’s possession.
2. improper preparation or excessive moisture content of the surface on which this product is installed
3. excessive moisture from natural disasters such as flooding, broken pipes, etc., in which case your homeowner insurance company should be contacted.
4. excessive wet mopping, steam cleaning, or failure to cleanup spills and standing water.
5. improper installation whereby the Product Installation Instructions are not followed.
6. improper application/use including installation over radiant heat which is not covered under Wood Flooring International’s Warranty.
7. improper maintenance and failure to follow the Product Maintenance Instructions. Finish Damage & Wear caused by:
• Commercial Use.
• Abuse /abnormal wear including, pet scratches, indenting from “high heels”, dropped or dragged heavy objects, improper maintenance, failure to protect entry & high wear areas with mats, furniture legs, etc. as reviewed in the Product Maintenance Instructions.
• Any subsequent site refinish compatibility/panelization issues, as this is the site installer/refinisher’s responsibility to:
1. adequately test the finish they propose to use for proper adhesion bond and,
2. to get approved by the end user, the look of the finish they propose to use prior to actually re- finishing the floor.
Claims Procedures:

In the event of a claim, the claim form must be submitted through the company from which the flooring was purchased. Upon receipt of the written claim, Wood Flooring International will act expeditiously to settle the matter but reserves the right to physically inspect the floor and remove samples for lab tests. Wood Flooring International shall report its findings back to you within 60 days of receipt of the written claim.
• The manufacturer warrants this flooring, within Industry Standards #1, to be:
• Free from defects in materials and workmanship when it leaves our possession.
• Of the correct wood grade.
• Of the finish quality represented in our samples and in our technical specifications.
• Between 6% - 9.5% moisture content as taken from the box.

#1 Standard industry trade practices allow up to 5% of the flooring shipped to contain milling, handling, finish and/or grade defects. This warranty applies only to that material in excess of 5% that is deemed to be defective. (When ordering flooring, it is standard trade practice to order 7% more flooring than actual coverage needed to allow for cross cutting and fitting waste as well as allowing the installer to set aside any substandard pieces.
Product Warranty – “the fine print”:

The manufacturer neither assumes nor authorizes any other person to assume for it any other obligation in connection with the sale of this product. This writing is the complete and exclusive statement of the warranty, and is in lieu of all other express and/or statutory warranties. Any implied warranties, including, but not limited to the implied warranties, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose are limited in duration to the duration of this express warranty. Some states do not allow limitations on how an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitation may not apply to you. Brandywine International Hardwood’s obligation under this warranty shall be limited to, at its options, providing replacement of shortages, exchange of defective products, or refund of purchase price for flooring with visible defects returned to the manufacturer prior to installation. For flooring with delamination and finish defective issues discovered after installation and not visible prior to installation, the manufacturer, at its option, will either repair or replace the defective flooring and/or refinish the defective finish. Wood Flooring International assumes no liability for incidental or consequential damages. However, some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so this exclusion may not apply to you. The sole purpose of the remedy provided herein is the replacement/repair of defective products or refund of purchase price. This remedy shall be the buyer’s exclusive remedy, and shall not be deemed to have failed of its essential purpose so long as Wood Flooring International is willing to replace/repair such defective goods or refund the purchase price. This warranty does not apply to any product or products designated as seconds, special or nonstandard items. Any product or products so designated are sold “as is”.

Floor Care – Urethane-based Prefinished Solid and Engineered Floors

Today’s wood flooring is manufactured using the latest technologically in advanced, factory applied, U.V. cured, acrylic urethane finishes. With a high build finish, our floors offer a durable finish that repels most household chemicals and are extremely easy to maintain.

Our factory applied finish is compatible with Bona Kemi’s floor care and finish products. Bona Kemi is one of the most respected finish manufacturers in the industry and offers a wide selection of on-site finishing options as well as a full range of maintenance products, all of which are readily available from your flooring distributor. For further information you may go to Bona Kemi’s web site at www.bonakemi.com/maintenance.




For additional Maintenance Recommendations visit The National Wood Flooring Association’s site at www.nwfa.org

Although wood floors are tough, they are not indestructible and can be scratched and damaged from improper use and care. We offer the following suggestions to maximize the enjoyment of your floor.


An Ounce of Prevention is worth !

As with any floor covering material, a bit of preventative care and some common sense will go a long way in keeping your floor looking its best. Following are a few suggested “do’s & don’ts”:

Floor Care
Do’s - Do’s - Do’s - Do’s - Do’s

o Obtain a touch up kit with fill sticks and markers that match the color of your floor. Every floor will have nicks, chips, dents, scratches, etc. Using a touch up will help keep your floor looking new.

o At all entryways, provide outside mats to keep dirt and grit off the floor. Inside, you may wish to consider using an additional mat or area rug to further prevent the inside tracking of dirt. Remember, sand and grit will scratch and wear any finish!

o Sweep or vacuum as often as necessary to remove any loose dirt or grit before it can scratch the floor. NEVER use the vacuum’s beater bar which will scratch the prefinished surface.

o When moving any appliances, heavy furniture, or other heavy objects slip a blanket or scrap of carpet, face down, under each foot of the object and then carefully slide the object over the floor. This will help avoid scratching and gouging.

o Use floor protectors on the legs of all furniture to prevent gouging and scratching. In addition, certain types of casters on furniture legs may damage hardwood flooring. The wide barrel type of caster works best. If your furniture does not have the correct type of caster, we recommend changing them. Floor protectors may be purchased at your local hardware store.

o Wipe up spills as soon as possible as water from spills can cause damage to any wood floor. Using an approved liquid cleaner to clean the entire floor is recommended but only periodically. The floor can be compromised if it is cleaned too often even with approved liquid cleaners.

o To avoid excessive shrinkage, cracking, swelling or cupping, you should keep the relative humidity ideally between the normal interior range of 45% and 55%, but certainly between 35% and 65%. This can be accomplished through the use of a dehumidifier/humidifier and/or air conditioning. (Your local hardware store sells inexpensive combination thermometers/humidity gauges, also known as Hygrometers, to monitor the relative humidity levels).

o In areas of excessive traffic and wear, please make use of runners or area rugs.
 If wear starts to develop in the finish in high traffic locations, these areas should be periodically refinished. Re-coating prior to total wear through of the finish will reduce the need for a complete re-sanding and refinishing. Contact your flooring professional for their expert advice on how to refinish worn areas.

o As the wood in your new floor ages, it can change in color as it gains its final character and patina. Certain species of wood, such as cherry, change color more than others. You should periodically move area carpets and furniture, especially in areas of direct sunlight, in
order to allow the floor to age and change color more uniformly.

Floor Care
Don’ts - Don’ts - Don’ts - Don’ts - Don’ts - Don’ts

o Do not allow dirt and grit to scratch your floor. Making use of entry floor mats and regular vacuuming of any grit and dirt that does reach the floor will help prevent scratching and wear.

o Do not overuse approved liquid cleaners. This overuse can wear the urethane layer faster than normal, change the gloss or appearance of the floor, distress and open wood character, etc.

o Do not allow water to stand on your floor at any time. When using the recommended cleaner, apply using a soft microfiber cloth and continue to wipe until dry. Water will cause cupping, swelling, delamination of veneer plies, and gapping. Also, when mopping your floor or cleaning up spills, do not over-wet your floor, as it will damage the wood. Only use a slightly damp mop or rag/sponge when cleaning. Also, never use so called “oil soap” type cleaners as many of these are actually water based and soaking the floor with one is the same as soaking the floor with water! Do not use a steam cleaner on the floor.

o Do not allow the relative humidity to drop below 35% or rise above 65%, as this may cause swelling, cupping or shrinking related problems.

o Do not allow “spike heel” type shoes to indent wood floors, especially if the heel tip is damaged or has lost its rubber pad.

o Do not allow improperly padded or unprotected furniture legs to damage your floor.

o Do not use ammonia, pine soap, oil soap, chlorine bleach or any abrasive cleaners that might scratch or react with urethane finishes. Contact the cleaner company to determine if its product will work with Urethane-based finishes.

o Do not wax your floor. On our factory pre-finished floors, finished with U.V. cured Acrylic Urethane, we do not recommend the use of any waxes, as these may make the floor slippery and dull the finish. Also, if the floor is ever waxed, it will be necessary to sand the entire waxed floor to bare wood before re-coating, should it ever need renewing. Left unwaxed, a light screening and recoat would be all that is required to renew the finish on an unwaxed floor.