Dwellings LIFECORE Arden Waterproof Hardwood

Dimensions: 1/2" x 7 1/2" x Random Lengths of 24" - 72"
Construction: Plank
Species/Design: Hickory Engineered Hardwood
Coverage: 30.56/SQ.FT
Edge Style: Beveled Edges - Beveled Ends
Finish: Low VOC UV Hardened Finish
Install Method: Staple, Glue, Float, Nail
Certification: FloorScore
Warranty: 50 Year Residential - 15 Year Light Commercial

Flush Stair Nose
Quarter Round
Reducer
T Molding
Threshold
Mapei Urethane Wood Adhesive
Scuba Thermo Silent Underlayment

LIFECORE Installation Guide

PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE ACTUAL INSTALLATION

● Hardwood flooring is a product of nature, which is characterized by distinctive natural variations in grain and color and is not considered flaws. Hardwood flooring will also experience a change in color over a period of time. The degree of change depends upon the species and the amount of UV exposure. This LIFECORE hardwood flooring is manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a grading defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type.
● The owner/installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality. This inspection of all flooring should be done before installation. Carefully examine the flooring for color, factory finish, grade, and quality before installing it. Do not install (or cut off) pieces with glaring defects whatever the cause. If the material is not acceptable, contact your distributor or dealer immediately before installation. Installation implies acceptance. No warranty will be offered for material with visible defects once the product is installed.
● Before beginning the installation of any hardwood flooring product, the installer must determine that the environment of the job site and the condition and type of the subfloor involved is acceptable, ensuring that it meets or exceeds all requirements, which are, stipulated in the installation instructions which follow. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure resulting from or associated with inappropriate or improperly prepared subfloors or job site environment deficiencies. For best results, we suggest using a National Wood Flooring Association Certified Professional for your flooring installation.
● The installer must document all site tests, and the records must be available if a claim is filed.
● The use of stain, filler, or putty stick for the correction of defects, small cracks, or face nail holes during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
● When ordering, 5-10% must be added to the actual square footage amount needed for grading and cutting allowances.
● We strongly recommend that you visit the NWFA website at www.woodfloors.org for installation help and maintenance tips.

● In new construction, hardwood flooring should be one of the last items installed. All work involving water or potential ground debris (plumbing, drywall, etc.) should be completed before wood flooring being installed. Heating and air systems should be fully operating, maintaining consistent room temperature at 60-80o F and a constant relative humidity of 35-55%.
● Flooring should not be delivered until the building has been closed in and cement work, plastering, painting, and other materials are completely dry. New concrete and plaster should be cured and at least 30 days before doing moisture testing.
● Check basements and under floor crawl space to be sure that they are dry and well ventilated to avoid damage caused by moisture. Crawl spaces must have a minimum 6 mil black polyurethane film as a vapor retarder on the ground surface if the crawl space is not finished with cement.
● The moisture content of both the subfloor and the flooring should be checked and recorded before any work begins.
● Flooring should be at the job site a minimum of 72 hours before installation for acclimation. The engineered flooring must be properly acclimated to temperature and humidity conditions before proceeding with the installation. Do not open cartons until ready to install. Follow the NWFA guidelines for acclimation (www.nwfa.org ) on the job site and moisture equilibrium.
● Handle with care. Do not stand on ends. Store flooring in a dry place, being sure to provide at least a four-inch airspace on or around cartons.
● Do not store directly upon on grade concrete or next to outside walls. Cartons should be placed in the installation area.
● The installation site should have a consistent room temperature of 60o-80o F and a constant relative humidity level of 35-55% for a minimum of 5 days prior to installation of any flooring product.
● Engineered flooring is for below grade, on grade or above grade installation only and cannot be installed in full bathrooms or other high moisture areas.
● Some Engineered Flooring can be installed over Radiant Heat using the floating floor method on or above grade. See approved species below or check with your distributor.

APPROVED SUBFLOOR TYPES:
1) Agency approved 5/8"(19/32”) minimum thickness or 3/4” (23/32”) CDX Exposure 1 plywood 16” on center floor joists properly nailed.
2) Agency approved 3/4” (23/32”) underlayment grade OSB Exposure 1 16” center floor joists properly nailed.
Note: When installing approved plywood or OSB, refer to specific structural panel manufacturer’s instructions for fastening and spacing.
3) Agency approved underlayment grade particleboard.( Nail down and glue down installation not recommended on particleboard)
4) Existing wood floors (installed at a right angle only).
5) Concrete Slab
6) Resilient tile, sheet vinyl, and ceramic tile only over and above mentioned and approved subfloor.

SUBFLOORS MUST BE:
● CLEAN - Scraped or sanded, swept, free of wax, grease, paint, oil, previous or existing glues or adhesives, and other debris
● SMOOTH/FLAT - Within 1/8” on 6’ radius. Sand high areas or joints, fill low areas (no more than 1/8”) with a cement type filler no less than 3000 p.s.i. Follow the instructions of the leveling compound manufacturer, but make certain the leveling compounds are completely dry before beginning installation. Any irregularities may cause hollow spots between the flooring and subfloor in any installation method and are not warranted.
● STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak or show movement. Replace any delaminated or damaged subflooring underlayment. Avoid subfloors with excessive vertical movement. If the subfloor has excessive vertical movement or deflection before installation it is likely it will have deflection after the flooring is installed.
● DRY - - Moisture content of subfloor must not exceed 14% before installation of wood flooring. All moisture testing must be verified & documented before and after the wood has been acclimated a minimum of48 hours and job site requirements met.
WOOD SUBSTRATES: Test the moisture of the wood substrate using a calibrated moisture meter approved for testing wood moisture according to the meter manufacturer. The reading should not exceed 14%, or read more than a 2% difference than the moisture content of products being installed.
CONCRETE SLABS (regardless of existing floor covering): All concrete subfloors must be tested for moisture content before installation of the hardwood flooring. The concrete subfloor must be a minimum of 30 days old before testing. The moisture content of the concrete subfloor must not exceed 3 lbs. /1000 sq. ft. / 24- hour emissions per CCTM and or 75% per Relative Humidity Test.
Below are methods to test to indicate moisture is present in the concrete subfloor:
1) Use an approved calibrated concrete moisture meter (Tramex Concrete Encounter) as a preliminary measurement for moisture. Follow manufacturer’s specific calibration requirements.
Any reading higher than 4% indicates the need for a Calcium Chloride (ASTM F-1869) and or Relative Humidity test (ASTM F-2170) and pH test.
2) Perform a poly film test. Tape down 2’ x 2’ poly film squares (a clear garbage bag or plastic drop cloth will do) in several places on the floor. Wait 24-48 hours, and then check for the appearance of condensation on the inside of the bag or plastic for a darkening on the concrete subfloor. Either occurrence signals the likely presence of excess moisture, requiring a mandatory calcium chloride test.
3) Test with a 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous Alcohol Solution. Do not apply the solution directly to the concrete surface. First chip ¼” deep into the concrete test area and apply several drops of the solution. Any change in color signals the likely presence of excess moisture, requiring a mandatory calcium chloride test.
4) Once you have determined the moisture content and that moisture is present a calcium chloride and pH alkalinity test must be performed to determine the moisture emissions through the concrete slab of the moisture and alkalinity in the concrete floor so appropriate corrective action can be taken.
● Perform a calcium chloride test according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The maximum acceptable reading is 3-lbs. /24 hours/1000 sq. ft. for moisture emissions. Three test for the first 1,000 square feet and one test for every 1,000 square feet thereafter.
• Perform a Relative Humidity test according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The maximum reading is 75%. Three test for the first 1,000 square feet and one test for every 1,000 square feet thereafter.
● Perform a pH alkalinity test according to the manufacturer’s instructions. A pH reading of 6-9 on a pH number scale of 1-14 is acceptable.
● If the test results exceed this number, the concrete slab should be sealed with appropriate sealers to correct those emissions as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. This must be documented before installation.

Note: If excessive moisture (3-lbs. to 7-lbs.) is present or anticipated, use a moisture retardant system to seal the concrete or an inexpensive sheet vinyl/slip sheet glued directly to the concrete slab to reduce vapor intrusion. Follow the instructions of the sheet vinyl manufacturer, using a premium grade alkaline resistant adhesive, and full spread application system to bond the vinyl to the subfloor. For additional requirements and information, refer to our Slip Sheet Technical Note.

Note: If a subfloor has been flooded or rained upon, it may not be suitable to install flooring.
INSTALLATION on WOOD SUBSTRATE:
Note: Do not use the glue down or staple down installation method on underlayment grade particleboard.
The subfloor should be constructed of 5/8” (19/32”) or thicker plywood or 3/4“(23/32") OSB when installing directly over a minimum 2 x 10-floor joists 16” on center. For up to 19.2” on center 3/4“(23/32") plywood or OSB should be used. For 19.2” to 24” on center 7/8” plywood or OSB should be used. Structural Panels must be installed sealed side down. Plywood sheets should be laid with grained outer plies at right angles to joists; adjacent rows staggered four feet and nailed every 6” along each joist with 7D or larger nails. When installing directly over old wood or strip floor, sand any high spots, re-nail old floor to eliminate squeaks or loose boards, and install new planks at right angle (perpendicular) to the old floor, or overlay old floor with 1/4” plywood underlayment. Leave a 1/8” gap at the edges and nail with 7D or larger nails every 6” at the edges and every 12” in both directions and through the interior of each sheet of plywood. Edge swell should be flattened. The moisture content of the wood or plywood should not exceed 14%.

INSTALLATION on CONCRETE SLABS:
All concrete subfloors should be tested for moisture content. New concrete slabs require a minimum of 90 days curing time before installation. Concrete subfloors must be free of existing adhesives, grease, oil, dirt, and curing compound. These may be removed chemically or mechanically, but do not do not use a solvent based stripper. The residual solvents can prohibit satisfactory bond of floor adhesives, the concrete, and the flooring. To ensure a lasting bond make sure the perimeter of the foundation has adequate drainage and vapor retarder.
Apply a liquid-based moisture vapor retarder coating to the subfloor. Over concrete use only concrete moisture sealer systems that are specifically designed for moisture suppression and adhesive bonding properties. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines and recommendations. The underlying floor must be permanently dry and protected against moisture. If this requirement is not met, the planks can swell, shrink and warp and may void the warranty.
Note: LIGHTWEIGHT CONCRETE:
Lightweight concrete has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot and is only suitable for engineered wood floors when using the floating installation method. Many products have been developed as self-leveling toppings or floor underlayment. These include cellular concrete, resin reinforced cementations, underlayments and gypsum-base materials. Although some of these products may have the necessary qualifications of underlayment for wood flooring installation, others do not. To test for lightweight concrete, scrape a coin or key across the surface of the sub-floor. If the surface powders easily or has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot, use only the floating installation method.

INSTALLATION on SUB-FLOORS OTHER THAN WOOD OR CONCRETE:
Do not install over carpets.
Note: Perimeter glued resilient vinyl and rubber tiles is an unacceptable underlayment and must be removed.

Terrazzo, marble, tile and any other hard surfaces that are well bonded to the subfloor, dry, structurally sound and level, as described above, are suitable as a subfloor for this engineered hardwood flooring installation. As above, the surface must be sound, tight, and free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, sealers, wax, grease, and dirt. Terrazzo, marble, and ceramic tile must be scuffed to assure adhesion.
The flooring can be glued or floated directly over full spread permanently bonded acoustical cork. Density should be 11.4 lb. / cubic ft. and installed according to cork manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use foam underlayment when using the floating method over the cork.

ASBESTOS WARNING! Do not sand existing resilient tile, sheet flooring, backing, or felt linings. These products may contain asbestos fibers that are not readily identifiable. Inhalation of asbestos dust can cause asbestosis or other serious bodily harm. Check with local, state, and federal laws for handling hazardous material before attempting the removal of these floors.

● Verify floor is level and structurally sound. Repair as needed. Subfloor irregularities may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and the subfloor. These are not the result of any manufacturing defect.
● Proper moisture testing is the key to determine readiness for installation.
● Follow the NWFA guidelines for acclimation (www.nwfa.org ) on the job site and moisture equilibrium.
.● Undercut door casings.
● Remove any existing wall base, shoe molding, quarter round or doorway thresholds
● Regardless of the installation method, all floors should be racked.


RADIANT HEAT SUBFLOORS:
ONLY PREFINISHED EUROPEAN WHITE OAK, AMERICAN CHERRY, ELM, MAPLE OR BIRCH ARE APPROVED FOR USE ON RADIANT HEAT APPLICATIONS. DO NOT USE BRAZILIAN CHERRY, HICKORY, ACACIA, OR ANY OTHER EXOTIC SPECIES. WARRANTY WILL BE VOIDED IF ANYTHING OTHER THAN APPROVED SPECIES IS USED.
RADIANT HEATING SYSTEMS USED MUST BE DESIGNED AND CONTROLLED SPECIFICALLY FOR HARDWOOD FLOORING BY THE SYSTEM MANUFACTURER AND MUST INCLUDED AN OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE PROBE AND SURFACE TEMPERATURE CONTROLS.

Follow the below-grade instructions (above) for underlayment requirements and installation instructions. Most radiant heat installations call for the requirements below when installing over radiant heat systems. Always refer to the manufacturer of the radiant heating system for detailed instructions.
• Floating floor installation is the preferred installation method. Do not use the staple installation method on radiant heat flooring. The nails may damage the radiant heating system. (Refer to NWFA Appendix H).
• Newly installed water- heated-radiant- heat systems should be operational for a minimum of 4 weeks with the temperature set between 64o-68oF to ensure a dry subfloor with the proper moisture content.
• Existing water- heated-radiant- heat systems must be operated a temperature of 64oF 4 for a minimum of 4 days before acclimation and installation of hardwood flooring.
• A pressure test must be preformed and documented before installation.
• At the time of installation, the subfloor must be 64o-68oF.
• Use an adhesive approved by the system manufacturer.
• If the subfloor is concrete and it has cured, turn the heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days to drive out residual moisture before installation of the wood flooring.
• Glue-down applications, require the heat to be reduced or even turned off before installation of the flooring begins, so the adhesive does not cure excessively. Test concrete using, Moisture Guideline Testing and Vapor Retarders.
• After installation do not change the radiant heat settling for 48 hours.
• Gradually increase the heat in 3 - 5 o increments daily to adjust the heating system temperature up or down to allow the flooring to adjust to the temperature changes
• The maximum temperature of subfloor under normal use should not exceed 85o F. (Check with heat system manufacturer).
• For correct water temperature inside heating pipes, check with manufacturer’s suggested guidelines.
• Heating pipes must be covered with 1 1/4” of concrete or minimum 1/8” below the bottom side of plywood subfloor. In addition, for plywood subfloor, heat transfer plates or insulation boards must be under pipes.
• Room temperature should be maintained between 60-80 o F and not vary more than 15o F from season to season.
• Relative Humidity MUST be maintained in the range of 35-55% humidity in the home for radiant heated rooms.
• .Always refer to the manufacturer of the radiant heating system for detailed instructions.
• The maximum allowable subfloor surface temperature is 85° F (29.44° C).
• Expect some heating season shrinkage.

REQUIRED TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES:
 Tape Measure
 Moisture Meter (wood / concrete)
 Underlayment and Vapor Retarder( if needed)
 Mallet (light colored)
 Circular or Hand Saw
 Miter or Table Saw
 Pry Bar
 Drill with 1/16” bit
 Tapping Block
 Chalk Line and Chalk
 Hammer
 Safety Equipment (Goggles & Mask)
 Utility Knife
 3/8 “or 1/2” Spacers
 Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
 Tongue and Groove Flooring Adhesive (PVAC)
 Broom


APPROVED SUBFLOOR: All subfloors should be covered with either a 3 in 1 Underlayment or an approved 1/8” thick closed cell foam underlayment. When using a 1/8” thick closed cell foam underlayment over a concrete subfloor, you must also use a 6 or 8 mil polyethylene film which acts as a vapor retarder.

BELOW GRADE: All engineered products when installed using the floating installation method, can be installed below grade. However, the following instructions must be followed.
The concrete slab should be sealed or painted with a good concrete sealer. Then the 3 in1 Underlayment or the 6 mil poly film should be installed with ends butted together and taped with a clear 2” packaging tape to prevent any moisture from coming up through the seams. The 3 in 1 underlayment or 6 mil poly film should be lapped up the wall 4” all the way around the room. This can be trimmed off after moldings are installed. If you are using the 3 in1 underlayments, you are ready to begin the installation. However, if you have used the 6 mil poly film, roll out on top of the 6 mil poly film a 1/8” thick closed cell foam, butting the edges but not overlapping.


IMPORTANT: DO NOT INSTALL CABINETS OR WALLS ON TOP OF THE FLOORING WHEN USING THE FLOATING INSTALLATION METHOD.
Step 1: POSITION THE FIRST ROW
Important: The flooring should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure proper color, grain, and shade mix.

● Before starting, first, measure the width of the room, and then divide the room’s width by the width of the plank. If this means that the last row of planks will be narrower than 2”, then you will need to cut the first row of planks to make it narrower. Cut in such a way that both rows of planks (the first and last to be installed in the room) will have the same approximate width for an overall continuous look. See installing the last row.
Note: To cut the boards, always saw with the teeth cutting down into the face or top of the board. Cutting from the top down helps protect the surface.

● Begin the installation of the planks in the left-hand corner of the room with the long direction parallel to the incoming sunlight source or to the longest wall of the room (if this is possible). Be sure to install the first row of boards with the groove side facing the wall. Use 3/8” or 1/2” expansion spacers (depending on the thickness of the flooring) to provide a gap for the seasonal expansion of the flooring along the walls of the entire room. Always place expansion spacers against the wall where the two boards meet.
Note: Larger rooms require additional expansion space. Add 1/16” to the width of the spacers for every 3’ the room extends beyond 25’. Dimensions exceeding 40’ require the use of a t-molding for expansion.
Note: When using the Floating install method, every doorway less than 6’ wide must be transitioned using a “T” molding.


● If the starting wall is out of square, it will be necessary to scribe the first row to match the wall, allowing the opposite side of the row to present a true square base for the rest of the floor. When the first row is complete, you must have a straight, even base established.

Step 2: GLUING THE BOARDS TOGETHER
● When installing the products which have been approved for the floating installation method, the boards must be side and end glued using tongue & groove Adhesive.
● Always apply the adhesive into the bottom of the groove on each board. Do not fill the groove. Apply a continuous bead, filling the bottom of the groove no more than halfway full. Start & stop adhesive 2” from the ends on the long side of the board and 1” from the ends of the butt end.

Note: If any excess adhesive squeezes up to the finished surface, wipe it off immediately using a water-dampened cloth or adhesive remover. Then dry the surface and buff with a dry cloth. If the adhesive has dried, use a soft white cloth moistened with adhesive remover. Do not abrade the wood surface.
Step 3: INSTALLING THE REST OF THE FLOOR
● After installing the first row of boards, apply the adhesive to the first board on the second row using the above gluing instructions.
• Distribute lengths, avoiding “H” patterns and other discernible patterns in adjacent runs. Always stagger 12” to 18” between end joints of adjacent board rows. The end joints should not repeat visually across the installed floor.
● Tap the boards together with a hammer and a tapping block. Be sure that the tapping block is against the tongue only and use only a gentle tapping motion to tap the boards together. Excessive force will damage the board making it difficult to install additional boards. Do not tap on the groove side of the boards as this will cause damage to the boards. Once the board has been tapped into place check for a tight fit on sides and ends.
● To install the rest of the flooring, continue placing the boards from left to right, plank by plank, and row by row.
Note: When installing around fixed objects, small areas or even in general installation areas, the use of installation straps may prove helpful for securing boards together. Installation straps are a handy tool that will ensure a tight fit when used to strap each continuous row of installation.

Step 4: INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
Most often the entire length of the last row will need to be cut so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space. When this occurs, follow this simple procedure:
● Lay a row of boards, unglued, with the tongue toward the wall, directly on top of the last row installed.
● Take a full-width scrap piece of the product that is being installed with the face down and the tongue side against the wall. Use 3/8” or 1/2” spacers against the wall to ensure the proper expansion space.
● Draw a line along the row moving down the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which, when cut, can then be wedged into place using the pull bar.
Note: Floor should remain free of foot traffic for a minimum of 12 hours while adhesive sets.
Step 5: FINISHING THE FLOOR
● A drying time of 24 hours is recommended before any damp mopping, cleaning or heavy objects or furniture can be put back into place.
● The use of putty or a non-silicone based filler to cover small cracks should be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations. Test filler on spare pieces first to ensure it blends with the floor.
● Make sure when the installation is complete that the expansion spacers are removed, and the expansion space is covered with the appropriate molding such as baseboard and 1/4 round or shoe molding. Do not nail moldings into the floor but nail into the wall.
● Vacuum the floor thoroughly using the soft brush attachment or dust mop to remove any dirt and debris.
● Use a quality Hardwood Flooring cleaner to finish the floor. We recommend Bona Swedish Formula Hardwood Cleaner
● If the floor is to be covered, do not use plastic use a breathable wrap, or material such as cardboard or kraft paper to protect the finish.
● Final inspection by the end user should be conducted from a standing position.

REQUIRED TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES
 Manual or Pneumatic Fastening Machines with 15-18 gauge 3/16” Crown Staples 1 1/4”-1 1/2” length.
o Powernail 1-1 1/4" 18-20 gauge cleats
* Moisture Meter (wood & concrete)
* Circular or Hand Saw
* Miter or Table Saw
* Drill with 1/16” bit
* Broom
* 15 lb. Asphalt Saturated Felt (not rosin paper)
* Tape Measure
* Mallet (light colored)
* Pry Bar
* Chalk Line and Chalk
* Hammer
* Safety Equipment (Goggles & Mask)
* Utility Knife
* Nail Punch
* Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
NOTE: Improper adapter plates and/ or staples/cleats can cause severe damage. Contact your Fastener Manufacturer for the proper adapter as well as recommended staples, cleats and air pressure.

NOTE: Planks wider than 6.5” Glue down method is preferred. NOTE If using staple down, use the GLUE ASSIST METHOD:
● Always apply the adhesive (Tongue and Groove Flooring Adhesive (PVAC))
into the bottom of the groove on each board. Do not fill the groove. Apply a continuous bead, filling the bottom of the groove no more than halfway full. Start & stop adhesive 2” from the ends on the long side of the board and 1” from the ends of the butt end. If any excess adhesive squeezes up to the finished surface, wipe it off immediately using a water-dampened cloth or adhesive remover. Then dry the surface and buff with a dry cloth. If the adhesive has dried, use a soft white cloth moistened with adhesive remover. Do not abrade the wood surface.

Do not use staples or nails intended for 3/4” solid flooring.

When using air compressors
• Adjust the regulator to ensure proper air pressure and setting of fasteners. Set air compressor to 70-80 PSI, adjust as needed, do not exceed the nailer or air hose limitations. Make sure the fastening machine is recommended for floor, is in good working condition, is fully adjustable, is at the appropriate angle, and that it seat fasteners properly against the tongue of the board to prevent top edge and surface dimple damage.

● Avoid striking the edge of the prefinished flooring with the fasteners mallet. Edge crushing can occur causing cracks and splinters. Use a block to hammer against if necessary. Use only a flooring nailer that engages the top profile over the tongue at the appropriate angle. Make sure that the flooring nailer is flat against the board to prevent top edge damage. The plate in contact with floor must be smooth and free from nicks or scratches. Faceplates should be covered with protective materials to prevent damage to the surface of the flooring.
● For manual fasteners, improper plate selection can cause severe edge damage. Check with the fasteners manufacturer to ensure that the proper adapter has been used for this nominal 3/8” or ½” flooring (9, 9.5, or 12 mm).
● For pneumatic fasteners, improper air pressure settings, and failure to use the proper adapters can cause damage to the flooring. The correct adapter and air pressure setting will properly set the fasteners in the nail pocket. Set air compressor to the fastener manufacturers recommended PSI setting or an initial pressure of 75 PSI. Use a compressor with an in-line regulator with an air hose for proper adjustments. Adjust the air pressure to ensure proper setting of staples. If tongue damage occurs, lower the air pressure. If the staples do not set properly increase the air pressure.
● If you need to remove a side nailed staple, do not pull straight up from the tongue. This will damage the surface of the board. Instead, pull out the staple from the tongue at the front of the board with all pressure from the hammerhead directed into the subfloor.
● The manufacturer of the flooring is not responsible for any damage caused by the use of improper fasteners, improper adapters as well as staples or cleats or tools or minor squeaking on mechanically fastened floors.
Step 1: ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT
● Before beginning the actual installation, provide a proper layout of flooring by laying out several rows of flooring end to end in a staggered pattern.
• Always stagger 12” to 18” between end joints of adjacent board rows. The end joints should not repeat visually across the installed floor.
● Flooring is to be installed at right angles to the floor joists and, if possible, in the longest dimension of the room.
● Work out of several cartons at a time to ensure proper color and shade mixture.
● To ensure that you have a good straight-line, place a mark 1” plus the width of the flooring on the end wall near a corner of the starting wall. Repeat on the opposite corner wall and insert nails into each mark. Snap a chalk line to provide a straight line to help align the planks
● Leave at least 3/8” to 1/2” for expansion at all vertical surface to be covered by the baseboard or quarter round trim. Normally the expansion space around the rooms should be the same distance as the thickness of the hardwood flooring.

Step 2: INSTALLING THE FLOOR
• Install 15 lb. Asphalt Saturated Felt (not rosin paper) on plywood surface where the flooring is to be installed.
● Fasten a sacrificial board to the floor and check for surface damage, air pressure settings, and tongue damage before proceeding. Make all proper adjustments before installation. Then remove and destroy the board.
● For the first row use the longest straightest boards.
● Align the first piece on the chalk line with the tongue out. The groove side and end will be facing the starting wall. Pre-drill holes to avoid splitting. Drive 7d or 8d finish nails or screw type flooring nails into the face of the board every 6” approximately 1/3”-3/4” from the edge closest to the starting wall and within 2”-3” from the ends and in the darker grain of the wood. Keep the starter strip aligned with the chalk line.
● Edge nail the plank by driving the same type nails at a 45o angle through the tongue of the first piece, spacing the nails every 1'-2' from the ends and every 3” - 4” apart with staples, every 4" to 6" apart with cleats. Repeat this process for the entire first row. Upon completion of the first row, go back and sink the face nails with a nail punch. If it appears that the holes will not be covered by the quarter round or wall base, fill with putty that blends with the floor color.
● Repeat the edge nailing for the second row but do not face nail like the first row. Typically the first few rows must be edge nailed by hand due to the proximity to the wall. When clearance allows, use the stapler/fastener.
● For ease of installation, work left to right. Left is determined by having your back to the wall where the starting course is laid. When it is necessary cut a strip to fit the right wall.
● Install each succeeding row of planks by stapling/fastening the tongue side every 4”-6” to within 2” from board ends. Be attentive to staggering the ends of the boards at least 6” in adjacent rows to avoid clustering end joints.
● Upon reaching the last row to be installed, the planks should be ripped to allow a 3/8”–1/2” expansion space. Depending upon the board thickness, the last rows must be fastened by nailing approximately 1/2”-3/4” from the back edge of the board every 6”. The same process of countersinking the face nails and applying putty should be repeated (as above on starting wall).
Step 3: FINISHING THE FLOOR
● The use of putty or a non-silicone based filler to cover small cracks or face nails holes should be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations. Test filler on spare pieces first to ensure it blends with the floor.
● Make sure when the installation is complete that the expansion spacers are removed, and the expansion space is covered with the appropriate molding such as baseboard and 1/4 round or shoe molding. Do not nail moldings into the floor but nail into the wall.
● Vacuum the floor thoroughly using the soft brush attachment or dust mop to remove any dirt and debris.
● Use a quality Hardwood Flooring cleaner to finish the floor. We recommend Bona Swedish Formula Hardwood Cleaner
● If the floor is to be covered, do not use plastic use a breathable wrap, or material such as cardboard or kraft paper to protect the finish.
● Final inspection by the end user should be conducted from a standing position.

REQUIRED TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES
• 3/16” x 5/32” deep v notch trowel or 1/4” x 1/4” x 3/16” square notch trowel. Follow adhesive manufacturers’ guidelines.
• High-Quality Urethane Adhesive
• Broom
• Tape Measure
• Moisture Meter (wood & concrete)
• Mallet (light colored)
• Circular or Hand Saw
• Miter or Table Saw
• Pry Bar
• Drill with 1/16” bit
• 6 - 8 d screw shank nails
• Chalk Line and Chalk
• Hammer
• Safety Equipment (Goggles & Mask)
• Utility Knife
• Nail Punch
• Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
Step 1: GETTING STARTED
● Install the flooring parallel to the longest outside (exterior) wall in the room. Measure out from the wall on the door side of the room in two places; 30 3/8” for 3” and 5” wide products. Mark and snap a chalk line across the two marks. The area between the chalk line and the wall is the working area and will be the last to be installed.

NOTE: See Radiant Heat above instruction if flooring has radiant heat.
Step 2: SPREADING THE ADHESIVE
● Hold the trowel at a 45o-60o angle and spread adhesive onto an area no larger than 30-40 square feet at one time.
● After spreading, allow the adhesive to flash off for 30-45 minutes before installing wood flooring. Maximum available working time is 45-50 minutes. (Colder temperatures or high humidity will extend times, and warmer temperatures or low humidity will shorten times.)
● Do not install wood flooring material after adhesive dries. Test by touching adhesive. If not readily transferred to finger, the adhesive is already dried. If adhesive has dried, remove adhesive and apply new material. Periodically check wood to confirm 100% adhesive transfer. Within one hour of setting wood, roll the installation with a 100-150 lb. roller to promote good contact with the adhesive.
● Always refer to the specific instructions on the hardwood flooring adhesive label.

Step 3: INSTALLING THE FLOOR
● The flooring should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure proper color, grain and shade mix.
● After the adhesive has been spread following the above-mentioned instructions, start with the first piece of flooring. Install the piece of wood with the groove towards you and the tongue facing the opposite wall. Line up the groove of the flooring with the chalk line then press the flooring into the adhesive.
● Working from left to right, lay the next board and continue working towards the right until you need to cut a piece to complete the first row. Measure the size you need to complete the first row and cut to length.

Distribute lengths, avoiding “H” patterns and other discernible patterns in adjacent runs. Note: Always stagger 12” to 18” between end joints of adjacent board rows. The end joints should not repeat visually across the installed floor.
● If the leftover piece is less than 6” long, cut another piece at a random spot, and start the second row with it. Be attentive to staggering the ends of the boards at least 6” in adjacent rows to avoid clustering end joints. A soft rubber mallet can be used to tap the boards on the face until they are pulled into proper position.
● To cut the boards, always saw with the teeth cutting down into the face or top of the board. Cutting from the top down helps protect the surface.
For wood subfloors: If you are working on a wood type subfloor, use small finishing nails to hold the first row in place. Fill nail holes with filler which is manufactured to blend with your flooring.
For concrete subfloors: If you are working on a concrete subfloor, take a piece of 1” x 2” x 8’ pine board and using 1” concrete nails, nail the board onto the dry side of your chalk line. This will hold your first row of starter boards in place.
● Complete the rest of the installation in your working area by following the same installation procedures that are stated in Step 2 of this section.
● Lift a plank periodically to make sure that there is 100% contact between the board and the hardwood flooring adhesive.
Step 4: INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
Most often the entire length of the last row will need to be cut so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space.
When
this occurs, follow this simple procedure:
● Lay a row of boards, unglued, with the tongue toward the wall, directly on top of the last row installed.
● Take a short piece of the hardwood flooring that is being installed with the face down and the tongue side against the wall.
● Draw a line with a pencil along the row moving down the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which, when cut, can then be wedged into place using the pull bar.
● You will need to use the pull bar extensively to make the last row properly flush.

Step 5: FINISHING THE FLOOR
● A drying time of 24 hours is recommended before any damp mopping, cleaning or heavy objects or furniture can be put back into place.
● The use of putty or a non-silicone based filler to cover small cracks or face nails holes should be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations. Test filler on spare pieces first to ensure it blends with the floor.
● Make sure when the installation is complete that the expansion spacers are removed, and the expansion space is covered with the appropriate molding such as baseboard and 1/4 round or shoe molding. Do not nail moldings into the floor but nail into the wall.
● Vacuum the floor thoroughly using the soft brush attachment or dust mop to remove any dirt and debris.
● Use a quality Hardwood Flooring cleaner to finish the floor. We recommend Bona Swedish Formula Hardwood Cleaner
● If the floor is to be covered, do not use plastic use a breathable wrap, or material such as cardboard or kraft paper to protect the finish.
● Final inspection by the end user should be conducted from a standing position.


C CAUTION: WOOD DUST WARNING

The State of California (OEEHA Prop 65, California Health, and Safety Code Section 25249.6) has classified Wood Dust as a substance known to cause cancer. Drilling, sawing, sanding, or machining wood products generates wood dust.
The State of Minnesota( Statute 1984 sections 144.495 and 325F.18 ) require all HDF and plywood sold or used in Minnesota meet the HUD Formaldehyde Emission Standard 24 CFR Sections 3280.308 and 3280.406.
Airborne wood dust may cause lung, upper respiratory tract, and eye and skin irritations. Some wood species may cause dermatitis and /or respiratory allergic reactions. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has classified wood dust as a nasal carcinogen in humans. Wood dust can also cause a flammable or explosive hazard
Precautionary measures:
● Recover dust for disposal. Sweep or vacuum dust for disposal or if power tools are used equip them with a dust collector.
● Avoid dust contact with an ignition source
● Avoid prolonged or repeated breathing of wood dust in air. If there are high levels of dust, then use a NIOSH- designated dust mask.
● Avoid dust contact with eyes and skin
First Aid Measures:
● If inhaled, move to fresh air. In case of contact flush eyes and skin with water. If irritation persists, call a physician.
Please contact your dealer or distributor to request a Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)

IMPORTANT NOTE: The information and data above are based on the experience of occupational health and safety professional. It comes from sources believed to be accurate or otherwise technically current. It is the user’s responsibility to determine if this information is suitable for the specific application and to follow any necessary safety precautions.

Installation Tips:
• Moldings must be predrilled avoid splitting whenever they are to be secured with nails or fasteners. Use a 10 or 12” miter saw with pre-set adjustments for the basic miter cuts at 22.5o, 45o, and 90o. A carbide tipped blade makes the best cuts.
• On Wall Base or Quarter Round moldings, never restrict the hardwood floor’s natural contraction/expansion movement by driving the fasteners at a downward angle. Rather, attach the moldings to the wall or vertical surface.
• Always miter cuts rather than having butt cuts when splicing. Decide the direction of the miter by cutting the molding with the long point oriented in the same direction as your natural line of vision when you enter the room.

Wall Base - Borders the wood floor at the base of the wall to give the room a finished look. This molding conceals the required expansion space between the wall and the hardwood flooring. It is also sometimes used under cabinets and toe kicks.

Quarter Round - This molding conceals the required expansion space between the wall and the hardwood flooring. It is also sometimes used under cabinets and toe kicks where a wall base won’t fit or at the base of the stairs to provide a subtle blend between the floor and the wall or vertical surface. Ensure nails are not going through the floor but into the vertical surface.
Threshold - Typically used at exterior doorways as a transition between flooring and the doorway threshold. It is also used to transition a wood floor to different floors to make them fit together perfectly, such as high pile carpeting or tile. Another typical use for a threshold is to conceal the expansion space between the flooring and a vertical surface such as fireplace hearths and sliding glass doors.

T-Molding - Commonly used in doorways to join two wood floors in adjoining rooms. Also recommended when making transitions from a wood floor to another floor that is approximately the same height such as ceramic tile, hardwood or laminate floors, not carpet. T-Moldings are also used to provide expansion joints when a floor dimension exceeds the length of 40’ or a width of 30’.
Reducer - Used to join hardwood floors that have been glued down or nailed down with floors of different heights such as vinyl, ceramic tile, or low pile carpeting.

Stair Nose - Provides the proper transition for stairways or steps which have hardwood floors that have been installed
by either the nail down or glue down installation method. Also provides the proper overhang for a transition from one floor level to the next such as the step into a sunken living room.

RESIDENTIAL WARRANTY

LIFECORE warrants the original purchaser of its Engineered Hardwood Flooring in North America to the following warranties:
LIFECORE are sold through authorized distributors and their dealers.
Products purchased through the internet or an unauthorized dealer will not be covered and void the manufacturer’s warranty.
LIFECORE Flooring Products and their authorized distributors prohibit displaying online product pricing.

50 YEAR FINISH and WEAR WARRANTY
LIFECORE warrants to the original purchaser that its factory applied finish will not wear through, peel off, or delaminate for a period of fifty (50) years from the date of purchase under normal and ordinary residential use and with proper maintenance and floor care.


5 - YEAR COMMERCIAL SURFACE FINISH LIMITED WARRANTY
LIFECORE warrants its products in their original manufactured condition to be free from manufacturing and workmanship defects including delamination (separation between plies), milling, and grading. (Up to 5% of industry standard).

These warranties, which begin from the date of purchase, apply only to products used in indoor dry residential applications either below grade, on grade or above grade and are valid only in North America.

These warranties apply only to the original purchaser and the original residential location where the product is installed and are not transferable.
Any product designated as “tavern,” “economy,” “cabin grade,” “seconds,” ‘B grade” or “as is” is not covered by any of these warranties.

LIFECORE hardwood flooring is a natural product will continue to expand and contract during seasonal and temperate changes. The product when properly installed may experience slight separation (up to 1/32”) between boards. If minor separation or seasonal cracks occur, they are not covered by this warranty.

The accepted industry standard is an allowance of up to 5% of the flooring shipped to contain milling, grading, handling, and occasional finish defects and shall not be considered a structural defect.

Finish wear-through is defined as 100% finish removal over a minimum of 5% of the total installation.
Product thought to be defective by the person doing the installation should be returned to your dealer for inspection and possible replacement PRIOR TO INSTALLATION. Installation implies acceptance. No warranty will be offered for obvious visual defects or appearance related claims such as grade or color once the products are installed.


IF THE ENGINEERED FLOORING SHOULD FAIL TO MEET THE TERMS OF THE WARRANTY, MANUFACTURER, AT ITS OPTION, WILL EITHER:

● Supply replacement product or parts to repair, refinish, or replace the defective product at the manufacturer’s option.

● Refund up to the full purchase price of the defective products.
THIS WARRANTY IS EXCLUSIVE. It covers the repair or replacement of defective materials only and does not cover labor costs unless professionally installed by a certified flooring installer. Installation of the replacement products will be at the original purchaser’s expense. If professionally installed, the manufacturer will pay the reasonable labor costs to perform the replacement or repair during the first five (5) years from the date of the original purchase. This warranty does not cover hotel fees, dumpster fees or any other charges. Any labor costs must be pre-approved by the manufacturer. In the event that the style installed in the home is no longer available, the manufacturer will replace the affected floor with another style of equal value. Under no circumstance will the value of a warranty claim exceed the original purchase price of the product.
THE ABOVE DESCRIBED REMEDY IS THE ORIGINAL PURCHASER’S SOLE AND EXCLUSIVE REMEDY FOR CLAIM UNDER THIS LIMITED WARRANTY.

Lifecore will honor claims under this warranty only if all of the following conditions are satisfied:
● At all times between purchase and installation, the flooring must be properly stored according to installation instructions.
● Interior residential construction only.
● Only approved products for use over Radiant Heat.
● The flooring must be installed below grade, on grade or above grade according to the recommended installation instructions and adhesives.
● Material and relative humidity in the area of use must be within a normal range of 35%-55%. If this is not maintained, it might compromise the integrity of the flooring.
• Environmental conditions below 35% RH or above 55% RH may result in cupping, delamination of veneer from the core and may become unusable as a floor.
• Problems caused by the failure of the homeowner or installer to evaluate the job site and job site conditions are not covered.
● This limited warranty applies only where the affected area of the flooring is visible and covers an area greater than 10% of the room.
● A description of the problem, photographs, and a sample that shows the warranty problem must be presented to the retailer/distributor for presentation to the manufacturer.
● The covered person must provide valid proof of purchase for material and labor in the form of a sales receipt or invoice. This must show the date of purchase, original purchase price, and that he/she is the original purchaser
● Lifecore must receive written notice within 30 days after discovery of any claimed defect or failure covered under this warranty, but within the time period applicable to the limited warranty.
● Manufacturer reserves the right to have a manufacturer’s designated representative or firm inspect and take samples of the hardwood floor for analysis.
● Lifecore must be given 60 days following notice to inspect the product to confirm any failure.
● Inspections of the hardwood floors must be performed by industry standards from a standing position with normal lighting and no glare.
● Written notice and all photographs, samples, and other documentation should be sent to the distributor/dealer from which the flooring was originally purchased.


This limited warranty shall not apply to damage to the hardwood floor or the finish arising from and specifically excluding any of the following:
• Natural wood characteristics such as mineral streaks, small knots, grain variations, etc., are normal and natural characteristics and shall not be construed as defects. No two pieces of wood are the same, and color or other variations will occur. Lifecore does not guarantee against natural variations or the normal difference between color samples or photographs and colors of installed floors. New and/or replacement flooring may not match samples and/or existing flooring or warrant a color match to other wood products such as stairs, cabinets, trim, molding, etc.
● Squeaking and cracking of the hardwood by any cause other than mis-manufacturing is not considered a defect. This includes splitting or cupping resulting from exposure to improper environmental conditions.
● Hollow spots between the flooring and the subfloor.
● Expansion and contraction of the hardwood due to seasonal changes in climate shall not be considered defects.
● Natural color changes due to full or partial exposure to sunlight and weather. Maple, Merbau, Kempas, Pine, Cherry, and Exotic species such as Brazilian Cherry may darken or yellow due to light exposure over time. This is a natural occurrence and is not covered by this warranty.
● Indentations, scratches or damage caused by negligence, water, moisture and saturation, insects, insect infestation after the product has left the factory, animals, pebbles, grit, sand or other abrasives, and high heeled or spiked shoes, or failure to use pads under rolling chairs or other furniture.
● Failure to follow the manufacturer’s written installation instructions including protecting the floor from subfloor moisture, storage, and handling.
● Failure to follow the manufacturer’s written installation instructions on approved adhesives. Damage caused by the use of water-based adhesive over sheet vapor barriers or sound insulation
● Excessive or inadequate humidity in the area. Relative humidity in the area of use must be within a normal range of 35-55%. If this range is not maintained, it may become unusable.
● Stains as a result of negligence, chemical or industrial products, wax, or oil soaps for cleaning, or standing liquid for a prolonged period of time.
● This warranty does not cover removal or replacement of cabinets, appliances, furniture, or other fixtures.
● Insufficient or improper protection, care or maintenance, or failure to use Manufacturer approved installation and maintenance products
● Damage from improper cleaning practices. Do not use steam mops or wet mops to clean your floors.
● Misuse or abuse
● Use of flooring for purposes other than for which it was designed.
● Improper alterations of original manufactured product. Alterations or repairs to the manufacturer’s original product will void any and all warranties. This includes sanding, top coating, recoating or attempted re-finishing of the factory-applied finish.
● Gloss reduction is not considered surface wear through.
● Freight costs or expenses and any damage occurred during shipping.
● Failure due to structural changes in the subfloor, settling of the building or uneven subfloor that has not been adequately leveled.
● Accidents, negligence, abuse, or misuse. Warranty will be made void if man-made, or natural disasters including leaking or broken plumbing, fire, flood, wind, lightning, earthquake, prolonged power outages, or standing water occur during or after installation.


THE FOREGOING IS IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.
THE MANUFACTURER DOES NOT GRANT TO ANY PERSON OR ENTITY THE AUTHORITY TO CREATE FOR IT ANY OBLIGATION OR LIABILITY IN CONNECTION WITH THE FLOORING.

MANUFACTURER SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR LOSS OF USE OR ANY OTHER INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL CONSEQUENTIAL COSTS, EXPENSES, LOSS OF INCOME OR PROFITS, OR OTHER SIMILAR DAMAGES INCURRED BY THE ORIGINAL PURCHASER.

SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY TO THE PURCHASER. THIS WARRANTY GIVES YOU SPECIFIC RIGHTS, AND YOU MAY ALSO HAVE OTHER RIGHTS, WHICH MAY VARY, FROM STATE TO STATE.

Routine Care & Maintenance for Your Hardwood Flooring
Your newly purchased LIFECORE floors are prefinished engineered hardwoods with a protective UV hardened finish for lasting beauty.

With today’s advances in wood flooring and finishes, cleaning your hardwoods has never been easier. Regular maintenance requires little more than dusting with a soft dry microfiber mop, sweeping with a soft bristle broom, or vacuuming with a soft floor attachment if your wood floor includes a beveled edge that could collect debris. We recommend you periodically clean your floors using products such as Bona floor cleaners, or a quality product that is a prefinished wood floor cleaner. For the best results, follow the instructions below. Using the wrong cleaners or method can damage your floor and void your warranty.

NOTE: It’s important to understand that when you clean your hardwood floors, you are not actually cleaning the wood—you are cleaning the UV finish on the wood. This finish is the protective layer on your hardwood floors.

Important Tips for Hardwood Cleaning and Maintenance

• hardwood flooring maintenance care
  Do not wet-mop your hardwood floor.
• Do not use self-polishing acrylic waxes. These will cause wood to become slippery and appear dull quickly
• Do not wet-mop your hardwood floor. Standing water can dull the finish, damage the wood, and leave a discoloring residue.
• Do not use vinegar and water to clean your hardwood floors. Using vinegar and water as a homemade cleaning solution can have a negative effect on your hardwood floor. Vinegar is an acid that will break down the finish on the surface of your floors, and over time it will reduce the shine and leave a dull appearance. Using vinegar and water to clean floors can also lead to an excessive amount of water on the floor, which can cause swelling and discoloration.
• Do not wax your hardwood floor. If after many years you want to refinish an area, consult a certified professional floor refinisher. Bona has products for refinishing but they must be applied by a professional.
• Do dust your hardwood floors. Dust and hardwoods don’t mix. Particle debris, such as dust, can scratch and damage a floors protective finish. To make matters worse, dust can be a health hazard for those with allergies and asthma. While there is no such thing as a 100% dust-free home, there are many things that can be done to minimize dust and keep floors looking beautiful. Learning how to dust hardwood floors takes minimal time and effort and the rewards are great.
• Do wipe away spills or sticky spots as soon as they happen with a damp cloth and then dry the area with a clean, soft cloth. Use a Bona cleaner or a pH neutral spray cleaner. NEVER wet mop, clean with oil soap, strong ammoniated or abrasive cleaners, use steel wool or scouring powder, coat with acrylic shine cleaner, or apply paste or liquid wax to your hardwood floors.
• Do not tackle tough spots such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, tar, or cigarette marks without consulting a professional flooring consultant. Always avoid allowing liquids to stand on your floor.
• Do vacuum using the hard floor attachment (not the beater bar), dust mop, or sweep the floor to minimize abrasive grit, debris, and dirt.
  Do not use any type of buffing machine.
  

Purchase the Right Tools for the Job

• An easy way to dust hardwood floors depends on the tools to get the job done. While there are many different devices and tools that can help dust your hardwood floor, the top three are vacuums, brooms, and microfiber mops. Within each category there are many different types and variations.
• Some people like to sweep or dry mop first and then vacuum. Others prefer to sweep, vacuum, then dry mop. Either way, finding the perfect technique for you will require at least one of the tools mentioned above.
• Looking for the best way to clean hardwood floors? What may work for some parts of your home might not be the perfect match for your floors. Finding an effective way to get the best clean for your hardwood floors is an important step in hardwood floor care.
  

The Best Way to Clean Hardwood Floors

• Learning how to clean and maintain hardwood floors is essential for protecting your beautiful investment.
• Since dirt and grime can’t hide on hardwood floors like they can on carpet, cleaning your floors may seem “high maintenance.” However, once you establish this simple routine, it won’t seem so difficult.

When it’s time to clean your floors, remember these hardwood tips:

• Prep your floor for cleaning by sweeping or dust-mopping to get rid of large particles of dirt and debris.
• Use a pH neutral cleaner that will be gentle on your hardwood floors.
• Use a fine spray mist to clean your floor in sections. Avoid putting too much liquid on your floors.
• Use a microfiber mop. Traditional mops can work, but they can leave excess water on your floors.
  Remember, a specially formulated hardwood floor care cleaner is a smart way to maintain the beauty and look of your floors. (Caution: some micro mops on some hand scraped floors will grab and splinter edges.)
  
• Daily Schedule – Dust/Sweep
  Giving your floors a good dusting with a microfiber mop or cloth will be your best daily defense against scratches and surface damage. Microfiber cleaning pads often use stati
• electricity to trap dirt, particles, and other household allergens. Using a broom to can be effective as well, but using a broom only pushes the dirt around. When you want to clean your floors without damaging them, avoid lifting your microfiber mop up off the floor when you clean—this way you keep the dirt trapped on the pad.
• Weekly Schedule – Vacuum/Mop
  Weekly maintenance will deal with the harder to reach areas that a daily dusting can’t reach. Vacuums and wet mops are ideal for getting dirt out of trouble areas like corners and the spaces between each piece of hardwood. However, using vacuums and mops come with extra caution when you want to clean floors without damaging them. If your vacuum has a beater bar, make sure it doesn’t hit the bare floor. Also, the wheels on a vacuum might damage the floor.
  

When you’re using a mop, avoid putting excess liquid on your floor. Lightly misting your floor with a hardwood floor cleaner will be enough to give it a great clean. A gentle touch is one of the best ways to clean hardwood flooring.

Defend Your Home and Hardwoods Against Dust

• The best way to clean hardwood flooring starts with a good defense. Consider these tips to help reduce the amount of dust in your home:
• Use rugs. Placing rugs at entryways and other traffic areas will help to keep debris in a general area. Having family and guests remove their shoes also eliminates another source of dirt and dust.
• Clean often. Set up a maintenance schedule and stick with it. Many people dust their floors daily. When you clean more often, you reduce the chances of dust accumulation.
• Change your filters. Changing vacuum filters and furnace filters will help keep these appliances working at an optimal level while decreasing the presence of dust in the air.
  Deal with problem areas. Be on the lookout for places where dust loves to build up. Be sure to clean drapes/curtains, underneath appliances, ceilings, walls, and electronics to reduce the spread of dirt and dust in your home.
• The key to keeping hardwood floors dust free is to have a realistic approach with the proper tools. While dusting hardwood floors might not be everyone’s favorite thing to do, it is a relatively inexpensive way to protect the investment of having great looking hardwood floors.
  
  Finding a Technique That Works: Dusting
• When it’s time to start dusting, these tips can help make this task relatively quick and painless.
• Make sure the floor is the last to be dusted. In general, dusting should be done from the ceiling to the floor. That way, you’re not doing double work when dust from higher places falls onto your previously clean floor
• Start farthest from the room entrance. Work your way towards room entrances—they are high-traffic areas and the general source for most dirt and debris in the room.
• Break up the room in sections. Divide the room up mentally for an efficient time dusting. Breaking up the room in a grid can help you keep track of the work you’ve done. Use long, deliberate movements to better maximize your energy and cleaning effectiveness.
  

Protecting Your Floors from Life and Pets

• Do use quality area rugs and doormats both inside and outside doorway entrance areas to prevent dirt, sand, grit, and other substances such as oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer from being tracked onto your floor. This will protect it from scratching. If you have hardwoods in the kitchen, place a mat under the sink or other areas prone to spills. The rugs must be made of a breathable material to prevent moisture entrapment. Do not use rubber or foam backed plastic mats as they may discolor or leave an imprint on the floor. To prevent slippage, use an approved vinyl rug underlayment.
• Do use felt protectors, casters, or caster cups on the legs of furniture to prevent damage to the flooring. Use wide bearing leg bases, barrel type caster wheels, rubber rollers to minimize indentations and scratches from heavy objects. As a rule of thumb, the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector should be. Make certain to keep felt protectors clean and well maintained as dirt and debris can become imbedded on the pad and act like sandpaper and damage the flooring surface. Replace often.
• Do avoid walking on your wood floors with cleats, sports shoes, and high heels. A 125-pound woman walking in high heels has an impact of 2,000 pounds per square inch. An exposed heel nail can exert up to 8,000 pounds per square inch. This kind of impact can dent any floor surface.
• Do not slide furniture on wood flooring. When moving items around it is best to pick up the furniture completely to prevent scratches. Use a dolly when moving heavy furniture or appliances. But first, put down a sheet of quarter inch plywood or Masonite to protect the floor and help prevent denting. Carpet or cardboard is not adequate to prevent surface compression scratches. Never try to slide or roll heavy objects across the floor to avoid denting.
• Maintain a normal indoor relative humidity level between 35%-55% and a temperature of 60o-80oF throughout the year, to minimize the natural expansion and contraction of wood.

Heating Season (Dry): A humidifier is recommended to prevent excess shrinkage due to low humidity levels. Wood stove and electric heat tends to create very dry conditions. Minor gapping between wood planks during the heating season is a normal occurrence with hardwood flooring installed over radiant heat.

Non-Heating Season (Wet): An air conditioner or dehumidifier or periodically turning on your heating system can maintain humidity during the summer months. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather.

• Do keep pets’ nails trimmed to minimize finish scratches and place water bowls on protective mats.
• Do protect your floor from direct sunlight. LIFECORE UV finishes help to protect hardwoods from fading, but over time natural and artificial light could discolor the floor. Use curtains and UV resistant film on large glass doors and windows to help.
• Rearrange area rugs and furniture periodically so the floor ages evenly. UV sunlight will soften the tone of different species of hardwood to varying degrees.
• Repairing Your Hardwood Floors
  Minor damage can be easily repaired by finishing putty available in blending colors.
• Retain several planks for future repairs.
• Major damage will require board replacement. If using the floating installation only, your floor can easily be disassembled to allow for replacement. Consult a certified installer.