Bloomington Casabella American Hickory Hardwood

Dimensions: 1/2" x 7 1/2" x Random Lengths Up To 75"
Construction: Plank
Species/Design: Hickory Engineered Hardwood
Coverage: 23.4/SQ.FT
Edge Style: Micro Beveled Edges And Ends
Finish: UV Cured Urethane
Install Method: Staple, Glue, Float
Where to install: All Grade Levels
Surface Type: Brushed
Warranty: 35 Years

Quarter Round
Reducer
Stair Nose
Threshold
T Molding
Mapei Ultrabond Eco 980 Premium
Mapei Eco 995 Premium Moisture
Scuba Thermo Silent Underlayment

Installation Instructions
T & G Prefinished Engineered Plank
PLEASE READ THE ENTIRE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH THE ACTUAL INSTALLATION

● Hardwood flooring is a product of nature, which is characterized by distinctive natural variations in grain and color and is not considered flaws. Hardwood flooring will also experience a change in color over a period of time. The degree of change depends upon the specie and the amount of UV exposure. This hardwood flooring is manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a grading defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type.
● The owner/installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality. This inspection of all flooring should be done before installation. Carefully examine the flooring for color, factory finish, grade, and quality before installing it. Do not install (or cut off) pieces with glaring defects whatever the cause. If material is not acceptable, contact your distributor or dealer immediately before installation. Installation implies acceptance . No warranty will be offered for material with visible defects once the product isinstalled.
● Before beginning the installation of any hardwood flooring product, the installer must determine that the environment of the job site and the condition and type of the sub floor involved is acceptable, insuring that it meets or exceeds all requirements, which are, stipulated in the installation instructions which follow. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure resulting from or associated with inappropriate or improperly prepared sub floors or job site environment deficiencies. For best results, we suggest using a National Wood Flooring Association Certified Professional for your flooring installation.
● The installer must document all site tests and the records must be available if a claim is filed.
● The use of stain, filler, or putty stick for the correction of defects, small cracks, or face nail holes during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
● When ordering, 5-10% must be added to the actual square footage amount needed for grading and cutting allowances.
● We strongly recommend that you visit the NWFA website at www.woodfloors.org for installation help and maintenance tips.
● In new construction, hardwood flooring should be one of the last items installed. All work involving water or potential ground debris (plumbing, dry wall, etc.) should be completed prior to wood flooring being installed. Heating and air systems should be fully operating, maintaining a consistent room temperature at 60-80o F and a constant relative humidity of 35-55%.
● Flooring should not be delivered until the building has been closed in and cement work, plastering, painting, and other materials are completely dry. New concrete and plaster should be cured and at least 30 days prior to doing moisture testing.
● Check basements and under floor crawl space to be sure that they are dry and well ventilated to avoid damage caused by moisture. Crawl spaces must have a minimum 6 mil black polyurethane film as a vapor retarder on the ground surface if the crawl space is not finished with cement.
● Moisture content of both the sub-floor and the flooring should be checked and recorded before any work begins.
● Flooring should be at the job site a minimum of 72 hours prior to installation for acclimation. The engineered flooring must be properly acclimated to temperature and humidity conditions prior to proceeding with installation. Do not open cartons until ready to install. Follow the NWFA guidelines for acclimation (www.nwfa.org ) on the job site and moisture equilibrium.
● Handle with care. Do not stand on ends. Store flooring in a dry place, being sure to provide at least a four-inch air spce on or around cartons.
● Do not store directly upon on grade concrete or next to outside walls. Cartons should be placed in the installation area.
● The installation site should have consistent room temperature of 60o-80o F and a constant relative humidity level of 35-55% for a minimum of 5 days prior to installation of any flooring product.
● Engineered flooring is for below grade, on grade or above grade installation only and cannot be installed in full bathrooms or other high moisture areas.
● Some Engineered Flooring can be installed over Radiant Heat using the floating floor method on or above grade.


See approved species below or check with your distributor.


APPROVED SUB FLOOR TYPES:
1) Agency approved 5/8"(19/32”) minimum thickness or 3/4” (23/32”) CDX Exposure 1 plywood 16” on center floor joists properly nailed.
2) Agency approved 3/4” (23/32”) underlayment grade OSB Exposure 1 16” center floor joists properlynailed.
Note: When installing approved plywood or OSB, refer to specific structural panel manufacturer’s instructions for fastening and spacing.
3) Agency approved underlayment grade particleboard.( Nail down and glue down installation not recommended on particleboard)
4) Existing wood floors (installed at right angle only).
5) Concrete Slab
6) Resilient tile, sheet vinyl, and ceramic tile only over and above mentioned and approved sub floor.

SUB FLOORS MUST BE:
● CLEAN - Scraped or sanded, swept, free of wax, grease, paint, oil, previous or existing glues or adhesives, and other debris
● SMOOTH/FLAT - Within 1/8” on 6’ radius. Sand high areas or joints, fill low areas (no more than 1/8”) with a cement type filler no less than 3000 p.s.i. Follow the insturctions of the leveling compound manufacturer, but make certain the leveling compounds are completely dry before beginning installation. Any irregularities may cause hollow spots between the flooring and sub floor in any installation method and are not warranted.
● STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak or show movement. Replace any delaminated or damaged sub flooring underlayment. Avoid subfloors with excessive vertical movement. If the subfloor has excessive vertical movement or deflection before installation it is likely it will have deflection after the flooring is installed.
● DRY - - Moisture content of sub floor must not exceed 14% prior to installation of wood flooring. All moisture testing must be verified & documented before and after wood has been acclimated a minimum of48 hours and job site requirements met.
WOOD SUBSTRATES: Test the moisture of the wood substrate using a calibrated moisture meter approved for testing wood moisture according to the meter manufacturer. The reading should not exceed 14%, or read more than a 2% difference than moisture content of products being installed.
CONCRETE SLABS (regardless of existing floor covering): All concrete sub floors must be tested for moisture content prior to installation of the hardwood flooring. The concrete subfloor must be a minimum of 30 days old prior to testing. The moisture content of the concrete sub floor must not exceed 3 lbs. /1000 sq. ft. /24 hour emissions per CCTM and or 75% per Relative Humidity Test.
Below are methods to test to indicate moisture is present in the concrete sub floor:
1) Use an approved calibrated concrete moisture meter (Tramex Concrete Encounter) as a preliminary measurement for moisture. Follow manufacturer’s specific calibration requirements.
Any reading higher than 4% indicates the need for a Calcium Chloride (ASTM F-1869) and or Relative Humidity test (ASTM F-2170) and pH test.
2) Perform a polyfilm test. Tape down 2’ x 2’ polyfilm squares (a clear garbage bag or plastic drop cloth will do) in several places on the floor. Wait 24-48 hours, and then check for the appearance of condensation on the inside of the bag or plastic for a darkening on the concrete sub floor. Either occurrence signals the likely presence of excess moisture, requiring a mandatory calcium chloride test.
3) Test with a 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous Alcohol Solution. Do not apply solution directly to the concrete surface. First chip ¼” deep into the concrete test area and apply several drops of the solution. Any change in color signals the likely presence of excess moisture, requiring a mandatory calcium chloride test.
4) Once you have determined the moisture content and that moisture is present a calcium chloride and pH alkalinity test must be performed to determine the moisture emissions through the concrete slab of the moisture and alkalinity in the concrete floor so appropriate corrective action can be taken.
● Perform a calcium chloride test according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The maximum acceptable reading is 3-lbs. /24 hours/1000 sq. ft. for moisture emissions. Three test for the first 1,000 square feet and one test for every 1,000 square feet thereafter.


• Perform a Relative Humidity test according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The maximum reading is 75%. Three test for the first 1,000 square feet and one test for every 1,000 square feetthereafter.
● Perform a pH alkalinity test according to the manufacturer’s instructions. A pH reading of 6-9 on a pH number scale of 1-14 is acceptable.
● If the test results exceed this number the concrete slab should be sealed with appropriate sealers to correct those emissions as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. This must be documented before installation.

Note: If excessive moisture (3-lbs. to 7-lbs.) is present or anticipated, use a moisture retardant system to seal the concrete or an inexpensive sheet vinyl/slip sheet glued directly to the concrete slab to reduce vapor intrusion. Follow the instructions of the sheet vinyl manufacturer, using a premium grade alkaline resistant adhesive, and full spread application system to bond the vinyl to the subfloor. For additional requirements and information, refer to our Slip Sheet Technical Note.
Note: If a sub floor has been flooded or rained upon, it may not be suitable to install flooring.
INSTALLATION on WOOD SUBSTRATE:
Note: Do not use the glue down or staple down installation method on underlayment grade particleboard.
Sub floor should be constructed of 5/8” (19/32”) or thicker plywood or 3/4“(23/32") OSB when installing directly over minimum 2 x 10 floor joists 16” on center. For up to 19.2” on center 3/4“(23/32") plywood or OSB should be used. For
19.2” to 24” on center 7/8” plywood or OSB should be used. Structural Panels must be installed sealed side down. Plywood sheets should be laid with grained outer plies at right angles to joists; adjacent rows staggered four feet and nailed every 6” along each joist with 7D or larger nails. When installing directly over old wood or strip floor, sand any high spots, re-nail old floor to eliminate squeaks or loose boards, and install new planks at right angle (perpendicular) to the old floor, or overlay old floor with 1/4” plywood underlayment. Leave a 1/8” gap at the edges and nail with 7D or larger nails every 6” at the edges and every 12” in both directions and through the interior of each sheet of plywood. Edge swell should be flattened. The moisture content of the wood or plywood should not exceed 14%.
INSTALLATION on CONCRETE SLABS:
All concrete sub floors should be tested for moisture content. New concrete slabs require a minimum of 90 days curing time before installation. Concrete sub floors must be free of existing adhesives, grease, oil, dirt, and curing compound. These may be removed chemically or mechanically, but do not do not use a solvent based stripper. The residual solvents can prohibit satisfactory bond of floor adhesives, the concrete, and the flooring. To ensure a lasting bond make sure the perimeter of the foundation has adequate drainage and vapor retarder.
Apply a liquid based moisture vapor retarder coating to the subfloor. Over concrete use only concrete moisture sealer systems that are specifically designed for moisture suppression and adhesive bonding properties. Follow manufacturer’s guidelines and recommendations. The underlying floor must be permanently dry and protected against moisture. If this requirement is not met, the planks can swell, shrink and warp and may void the warranty.
Note: LIGHTWEIGHT CONCRETE:
Lightweight concrete has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot and is only suitable for engineered wood floors when using the floating installation method. Many products have been developed as self-leveling toppings or floor underlayment. These include cellular concrete, resin reinforced cementations, underlayments and gypsum-base materials. Although some of these products may have the necessary qualifications of underlayment for wood flooring installation, others do not. To test for lightweight concrete, scrape a coin or key across the surface of the sub-floor. If the surface powders easily or has a dry density of 100 pounds or less per cubic foot, use only the floating installation method.
INSTALLATION on SUB-FLOORS OTHER THAN WOOD OR CONCRETE:
Do not install over carpets.
Note: Perimeter glued resilient vinyl and rubber tiles are unacceptable underlayments and must be removed.

Terrazzo, marble, tile and any other hard surfaces that are well bonded to sub floor, dry, structurally sound and level, as described above, are suitable as a sub floor for this engineered hardwood flooring installation. As above, the


surface must be sound, tight, and free of paint, oil, existing adhesives, sealers, wax, grease, and dirt. Terrazzo, marble, and ceramic tile must be scuffed to assure adhesion.
The flooring can be glued or floated directly over full spread permanently bonded acoustical cork. Density should be
11.4 lb. / cubic ft. and installed according to cork manufacturer’s recommendations. Do not use foam underlayment when using the floating method over cork.
ASBESTOS WARNING! Do not sand existing resilient tile, sheet flooring, backing, or felt linings. These products may contain asbestos fibers that are not readily identifiable. Inhalation of asbestos dust can cause asbestosis or other serious bodily harm. Check with local, state, and federal laws for handling hazardous material before attempting the removal of these floors.

● Verify floor is level and structurally sound. Repair as needed. Sub floor irregularities may cause any wood flooring installation to develop hollow spots between the flooring and the sub floor. These are not the result of any manufacturing defect.
● Proper moisture testing is the key to determine readiness for installation.
● Follow the NWFA guidelines for acclimation (www.nwfa.org ) on the job site and moisture equilibrium.
.● Undercut door casings.
● Remove any existing wall base, shoe molding, quarter round or doorway thresholds
● Regardless of the installation method all floors should be racked.

RADIANT HEAT SUB FLOORS:
ONLY PREFINISHED EUROPEAN WHITE OAK, AMERICAN CHERRY, ELM, MAPLE OR BIRCH ARE APPROVED FOR USE ON RADIANT HEAT APPLICATIONS. DO NOT USE BRAZILIAN CHERRY, HICKORY, ACACIA, OR ANY OTHER EXOTIC SPECIES. WARRANTY WILL BE VOIDED IF ANTHING OTHER THAN APPROVED SPECIES IS USED.

RADIANT HEATING SYSTEMS USED MUST BE DESIGNED AND CONTROLLED SPECIFICALLY FOR HARDWOOD FLOORING BY THE SYSTEM MANUFACTURER AND MUST INCLUDED AN OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE PROBE AND SURFACE TEMPERATURE CONTROLS.

Follow the below grade instructions (above) for underlayment requirements and installation instructions. Most radiant heat installations call for the requirements below when installing over radiant heat systems. Always refer to the manufacturer of the radiant heating system for detailed instructions.
• Floating floor installation is the preferred installation method. Do not use the staple installation method on radiant heat flooring. The nails may damage the radiant heating system. (Refer to NWFA Appendix H).
• Newly installed water- heated-radiant- heat systems should be operational for a minimum of 4 weeks with the temperature set between 64o-68oF to insure a dry subfloor with the proper moisturecontent.
• Existing water- heated-radiant- heat systems must be operated a temperature of 64oF 4 for a minimum of 4 days before acclimation and installation of hardwood flooring.
• A pressure test must be preformed and documented prior to installation.
• At the time of installation, sub floor must be 64o-68oF.
• Use an adhesive approved by the system manufacturer .
• If the subfloor is concrete and it has cured, turn the heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days to drive out residual moisture before installation of the wood flooring.
• Glue-down applications, require the heat to be reduced or even turned off before installation of the flooring begins, so the adhesive does not cure excessively. Test concrete using, Moisture Guideline Testing and
Vapor Retarders.
• After installation do not change the radiant heat settling for 48 hours.
• Gradually increase the heat in 3 - 5 o increments daily to adjust the heating system temperature up or down to allow the flooring to adjust to the temperature changes
• The maximum temperature of sub floor under normal use should not exceed 85o F. (Check with heat

system manufacturer).
• For correct water temperature inside heating pipes, check with manufacturer’s suggestedguidelines.
• Heating pipes must be covered with 1 1/4” of concrete or minimum 1/8” below bottom side of plywood sub floor. In addition, for plywood sub floor, heat transfer plates or insulation boards must be under pipes.
• Room temperature should be maintained between 60-80 o F and not vary more than 15o F from season to season.
• Relative Humidity MUST be maintained in the range of 35-55% humidity in the home for radiant heated rooms.
• Always refer to the manufacturer of the radiant heating system for detailed instructions.
• The maximum allowable subfloor surface temperature is 85° F (29.44° C).
• Expect some heating season shrinkage.

REQUIRED TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES:
∗ Tape Measure
∗ Moisture Meter (wood / concrete)
∗ Underlayment and Vapor Retarder( if needed)
∗ Mallet (light colored)
∗ Circular or Hand Saw
∗ Miter or Table Saw
∗ Pry Bar
∗ Drill with 1/16” bit
∗ Tapping Block
∗ Chalk Line and Chalk
∗ Hammer
∗ Safety Equipment (Goggles & Mask)
∗ Utility Knife
∗ 3/8 “or 1/2” Spacers
∗ Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
∗ Tongue and Groove Flooring Adhesive (PVAC)
∗ Broom
APPROVED SUB FLOOR: All sub floors should be covered with either a 3 in 1 Underlayment or an approved 1/8” thick closed cell foam underlayment. When using a 1/8” thick closed cell foam underlayment over a concrete sub floor, you must also use a 6 or 8 mil polyethylene film which acts as a vapor retarder.
BELOW GRADE: All engineered products when installed using the floating installation method, can be installed below grade. However the following instructions must be followed.
The concrete slab should be sealed or painted with a good concrete sealer. Then the 3 in1 Underlayment or the 6 mil poly film should be installed with ends butted together and taped with a clear 2” packaging tape to prevent any moisture from coming up through the seams. The 3 in 1 underlayment or 6 mil poly film should be lapped up the wall 4” all the way around the room. This can be trimmed off after moldings are installed. If you are using the 3 in1 underlayment, you are ready to begin the installation. However, if you have used the 6 mil poly film, roll out on top of the 6 mil poly film a 1/8” thick closed cell foam, butting the edges but not overlapping.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT INSTALL CABINETS OR WALLS ON TOP OF THE FLOORING WHEN USING THE FLOATING INSTALLTION METHOD.
Step 1: POSITION THE FIRST ROW
Important: The flooring should be installed from several cartons at the same time to insure proper color, grain, and shade mix.


● Before starting, first measure the width of the room, and then divide the room’s width by the width of the plank. If this means that the last row of planks will be narrower than 2”, then you will need to cut the first row of planks to make it narrower. Cut in such a way that both rows of planks (the first and last to be installed in the room) will have the same approximate width for an overall continuous look. See installing the last row.
Note: To cut the boards, always saw with the teeth cutting down into the face or top of the board . Cutting from the top down helps protect the surface.
● Begin the installation of the planks in the left hand corner of the room with the long direction parallel to the incoming sunlight source or to the longest wall of the room (if this is possible). Be sure to install the first row of boards with the groove side facing the wall. Use 3/8” or 1/2” expansion spacers (depending on the thickness of the flooring) to provide a gap for the seasonal expansion of the flooring along the walls of the entire room. Always place expansion spacers against the wall where the two boards meet.

Note: Larger rooms require additional expansion space. Add 1/16” to the width of the spacers for every 3’ the room extends beyond 25’. Dimensions exceeding 40’ require the use of a t-molding for expansion.
Note: When using the Floating install method, every doorway less than 6’ wide must be transitioned using a “T” molding.
● If the starting wall is out of square, it will be necessary to scribe the first row to match the wall, allowing the opposite side of the row to present a true square base for the rest of the floor. When the first row is complete, you must have a straight, even base established.
Step 2: GLUING THE BOARDS TOGETHER
● When installing the products which have been approved for the floating installation method, the boards must be side and end glued using tongue & groove Adhesive.
● Always apply the adhesive into the bottom of the groove on each board. Do not fill the groove. Apply a continuous bead, filling the bottom of the groove no more than halfway full. Start & stop adhesive 2” from the ends on the long side of the board and 1” from the ends on the butt end.
Note: If any excess adhesive squeezes up to the finished surface, wipe it off immediately using a water dampened cloth or adhesive remover. Then dry the surface and buff with a dry cloth. If the adhesive has dried, use a soft white cloth moistened with adhesive remover. Do not abrade the wood surface.

Step 3: INSTALLING THE REST OF THE FLOOR
Note: Always stagger 12” to 18” between end joints of adjacent board rows. The end joints should not repeat visually across the installed floor.

● After installing the first row of boards, apply the adhesive to the first board on the second row using the above gluing instructions.
● Connect that board to the first row making sure that there is at least a 6” stagger between the end joint of the board on the first row.
• Distribute lengths, avoiding “H” patterns and other discernible patters in adjacent runs. Stagger end joints of boards row to row a minimum of 6” for strip flooring, 8-10” for 3-5” plank, and 10” for plank wider than 5”,
• Work out of several cartons at a time to insure proper color and shade mixture.
● Tap the boards together with a hammer and a tapping block. Be sure that the tapping block is against the tongue only and use only a gentle tapping motion to tap the boards together. Excessive force will damage the board making it difficult to install additional boards. Do not tap on the groove side of the boards as this will cause damage to the boards. Once the board has been tapped into place check for a tight fit on sides and ends.
● To install the rest of the flooring, continue placing the boards from left to right, plank by plank, and row by row.

Note: When installing around fixed objects, small areas or even in general installation areas, the use of installation


straps may prove helpful for securing boards together. Installation straps are a handy tool that will insure a tight fit when used to strap each continuous row of installation.
Step 4: INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
Most often the entire length of the last row will need to be cut so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space. When this occurs, follow this simple procedure:
● Lay a row of boards, unglued, with the tongue toward the wall, directly on top of the last row installed.
● Take a full width scrap piece of the product that is being installed with the face down and the tongue side against the wall. Use 3/8” or 1/2” spacers against the wall to ensure the proper expansion space.
● Draw a line along the row moving down the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which, when cut, can then be wedged into place using the pull bar.
Note: Floor should remain free of foot traffic for a minimum of 12 hours while adhesive sets.
Step 5: FINISHING THE FLOOR
● A drying time of 24 hours is recommended before any damp mopping, cleaning or heavy objects or furniture can be put back into place.
● The use of putty or a non-silicone based filler to cover small cracks should be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations. Test filler on spare pieces first to ensure it blends with the floor.
● Make sure when the installation is complete that the expansion spacers are removed and the expansion space is covered with the appropriate molding such as baseboard and 1/4 round or shoe molding. Do not nail moldings into the floor but nail into the wall.
● Vacuum the floor thoroughly using the soft brush attachment or dust mop to remove any dirt anddebris.
● Use a quality Hardwood Flooring cleaner to finish the floor. We recommend Bona Swedish Formula Hardwood Cleaner
● If the floor is to be covered, do not use plastic use a breathable wrap, or material such as cardboard or kraft paper to protect the finish.
● Final inspection by the end user should be conducted from a standing position.

REQUIRED TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES
∗ Manual or Pneumatic Fastening Machines with 15-18 gauge 3/16” Crown Staples 1 1/4”-1 1/2” length.
o Powernail 1-1 1/4" 18-20 gauge cleats
* Moisture Meter (wood & concrete)
* Circular or Hand Saw
* Miter or Table Saw
* Drill with 1/16” bit
* Broom
* 15 lb. Asphalt Saturated Felt (not rosin paper)
* Tape Measure
* Mallet (light colored)
* Pry Bar
* Chalk Line and Chalk
* Hammer
* Safety Equipment (Goggles & Mask)
* Utility Knife
* Nail Punch
* Hardwood Flooring Cleaner

NOTE: Improper adapter plates and/ or staples/cleats can cause severe damage. Contact your Fastener Manufacturer for the proper adapter as well as recommended staples, cleats and air pressure.

NOTE: Planks wider than 6.5” Glue down method is preferred.





Do not use staples or nails intended for 3/4” solid flooring.



When using air compressors
• Adjust the regulator to ensure proper air pressure and setting of fasteners. Set air compressor to 70 -80 PSI, adjust as needed, do not exceed the nailer or air hose limitations. Make sure the fastening machine is recommended for floor, is in good working condition, is fully adjustable, is at the appropriate angle, and that it seat fasteners properly against the tongue of the board to prevent top edge and surface dimple damage.
● Avoid striking the edge of the prefinished flooring with the fasteners mallet. Edge crushing can occur causing cracks and splinters. Use a block to hammer against if necessary. Use only a flooring nailer that engages the top profile over the tongue at the appropriate angle. Make sure that the flooring nailer is flat against the board to prevent top edge damage. The plate in contact with floor must be smooth and free from nicks or scratches. Faceplates should be covered with protective materials to prevent damage to the surface of the flooring.
● For manual fasteners improper plate selection can cause severe edge damage. Check with the fasteners manufacturer to ensure that the proper adapter has been used for this nominal 3/8” or ½” flooring (9, 9.5 , or 12 mm).
● For pneumatic fasteners, improper air pressure settings, and failure to use the proper adapters can cause damage to the flooring. The correct adapter and air pressure setting will properly set the fasteners in the nail pocket. Set air compressor to the fastener manufacturers recommended PSI setting or an initial pressure of 75 PSI. Use a compressor with an in-line regulator with an air hose for proper adjustments. Adjust the air pressure to insure proper setting of staples. If tongue damage occurs, lower the air pressure. If the staples do not set properly increase the air pressure.
● If you need to remove a side nailed staple, do not pull straight up from the tongue. This will damage the surface of the board. Instead, pull out the staple from the tongue at the front of the board with all pressure from the hammer head directed into the sub floor.
● The manufacturer of the flooring is not responsible for any damage caused by the use of improper fasteners, improper adapters as well as staples or cleats or tools or minor squeaking on mechanically fastened floors.
Step 1: ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT
● Before beginning the actual installation, provide proper layout of flooring by laying out several rows of flooring end to end in a staggered pattern.
● Allow for a minimum 6” stagger of the end joints of the adjoining row, distributing short and long lengths equally over the areas where the flooring is to be installed.
● Flooring is to be installed at right angles to the floor joists and, if possible, in the longest dimension of the room.
● Work out of several cartons at a time to insure proper color and shade mixture.
● To ensure that you have a good straight-line, place a mark 1” plus the width of the flooring on the end wall near a corner of the starting wall. Repeat on the opposite corner wall and insert nails into each mark. Snap a chalk line to provide a straight line to help align the planks
● Leave at least 3/8” to 1/2” for expansion at all vertical surface to be covered by the baseboard or quarter round trim. Normally the expansion space around the rooms should be the same distance as the thickness of the hardwood flooring.
Step 2: INSTALLING THE FLOOR
• Install15 lb. Asphalt Saturated Felt (not rosin paper) on plywood surface where the flooring is to be installed.
● Fasten a sacrificial board to the floor and check for surface damage, air pressure settings, and tongue damage before proceeding. Make all proper adjustments before installation. Then remove and destroy theboard.
● For the first row use the longest straightest boards.



● Align the first piece on the chalk line with the tongue out. The groove side and end will be facing the starting wall. Pre drill holes to avoid splitting. Drive 7d or 8d finish nails or screw type flooring nails into the face of the board every 6” approximately 1/3”-3/4” from the edge closest to the starting wall and within 2”-3” from the ends and in the darker grain of the wood. Keep the starter strip aligned with the chalk line.
● Edge nail the plank by driving the same type nails at a 45o angle through the tongue of the first piece, spacing the nails every 1'-2' from the ends and every 3” - 4”apart with stapels, every 4" to 6" apart with cleats. Repeat this process for the entire first row. Upon completion of the first row, go back and sink the face nails with a nail punch. If it appears that the holes will not be covered by the quarter round or wall base, fill with putty that blends with the floor color.
● Repeat the edge nailing for the second row but do not face nail like the first row. Typically the first few rows must be edge nailed by hand due to the close proximity to the wall. When clearance allows, use the stapler/fastener.
● For ease of installation, work left to right. Left is determined by having your back to the wall where the starting course is laid. When it is necessary cut a strip to fit the right wall .
• Distribute lengths, avoiding “H” patterns and other discernible patters in adjacent runs. Stagger end joints of boards row to row a minimum of 6” for strip flooring, 8-10” for 3-5” plank, and 10” for plank wider than 5”,
● Install each succeeding row of planks by stapling/fastening the tongue side every 4”-6” to within 2” from board ends. Be attentive to staggering the ends of the boards at least 6” in adjacent rows to avoid clustering end joints.
● Upon reaching the last row to be installed, the planks should be ripped to allow a 3/8”–1/2” expansion space. Depending upon the board thickness, the last rows must be fastened by nailing approximately 1/2”-3/4” from the back edge of the board every 6” . The same process of counter sinking the face nails and applying putty should be repeated (as above on starting wall).
Step 3: FINISHING THE FLOOR
● The use of putty or a non-silicone based filler to cover small cracks or face nails holes should be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations. Test filler on spare pieces first to ensure it blends with the floor.
● Make sure when the installation is complete that the expansion spacers are removed and the expansion space is covered with the appropriate molding such as baseboard and 1/4 round or shoe molding. Do not nail moldings into the floor but nail into the wall.
● Vacuum the floor thoroughly using the soft brush attachment or dust mop to remove any dirt anddebris.
● Use a quality Hardwood Flooring cleaner to finish the floor. We recommend Bona Swedish Formula Hardwood Cleaner
● If the floor is to be covered, do not use plastic use a breathable wrap, or material such as cardboard or kraft paper to protect the finish.
● Final inspection by the end user should be conducted from a standing position.

REQUIRED TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES
* 3/16” x 5/32” deep v notch trowel or 1/4” x 1/4” x 3/16” square notch trowel. Follow adhesive manufacturers’ guidelines.
* High Quality Urethane Adhesive
* Broom
* Tape Measure
* Moisture Meter (wood & concrete)
* Mallet (light colored)
* Circular or Hand Saw
* Miter or Table Saw
* Pry Bar
* Drill with 1/16” bit
* 6 - 8 d screw shank nails
* Chalk Line and Chalk
* Hammer
* Safety Equipment (Goggles & Mask)
* Utility Knife
* Nail Punch
* Hardwood Flooring Cleaner


Step 1: GETTING STARTED
● Install the flooring parallel to the longest outside (exterior) wall in the room. Measure out from the wall on the door side of the room in two places; 30 3/8” for 3” and 5” wide products. Mark and snap a chalk line across the two marks. The area between the chalk line and the wall is the working area and will be the last to be installed.
NOTE: See Radiant Heat above instruction if flooring has radiant heat.
Step 2: SPREADING THE ADHESIVE
● Hold the trowel at a 45o-60o angle and spread adhesive onto an area no larger than 30-40 square feet at one time.
● After spreading, allow adhesive to flash off for 30-45 minutes before installing wood flooring. Maximum available working time is 45-50 minutes. (Colder temperatures or high humidity will extend times and warmer temperatures or low humidity will shorten times.)
● Do not install wood flooring material after adhesive dries. Test by touching adhesive. If not readily transferred to finger, adhesive is already dried. If adhesive has dried, remove adhesive and apply new material. Periodically check wood to confirm 100% adhesive transfer. Within one hour of setting wood, roll the installation with a 100 - 150 lb. roller to promote good contact with the adhesive.
● Always refer to the specific instructions on the hardwood flooring adhesive label.

Step 3: INSTALLING THE FLOOR
● The flooring should be installed from several cartons at the same time to insure proper color, grain and shade mix..
● After the adhesive has been spread following the above mentioned instructions, start with the first piece of flooring. Install the piece of wood with the groove towards you and the tongue facing the opposite wall. Line up the groove of the flooring with the chalk line then press the flooring into the adhesive.
● Working from left to right, lay the next board and continue working towards the right until you need to cut a piece to complete the first row. Measure the size you need to complete the first row and cut to length.
• Distribute lengths, avoiding “H” patterns and other discernible patterns in adjacent runs. Stagger end joints of boards row to row a minimum of 6” for strip flooring, 8-10” for 3” to 5” plank, and 10” for plank winder then 5”.
● If the left over piece is less than 6” long, cut another piece at a random spot, and start the second row with it. Be attentive to staggering the ends of the boards at least 6” in adjacent rows to avoid clustering end joints. A soft rubber mallet can be used to tap the boards on the face until they are pulled into proper position.
● To cut the boards, always saw with the teeth cutting down into the face or top of the board . Cutting from the top down helps protect the surface.
For wood sub floors: If you are working on a wood type sub floor, use small finishing nails to hold the first row in place. Fill nail holes with filler which is manufactured to blend with your flooring.
For concrete sub floors: If you are working on a concrete sub floor, take a piece of 1” x 2” x 8’ pine board and using 1” concrete nails, nail the board onto the dry side of your chalk line. This will hold your first row of starter boards in place.
● Complete the rest of the installation in your working area by following the same installation procedures that are stated in Step 2 of this section.
● Lift a plank periodically to make sure that there is 100% contact between the board and the hardwood flooring adhesive.
Step 4: INSTALLING THE LAST ROW
Most often the entire length of the last row will need to be cut so that it is narrow enough to fit the remaining space.
When this occurs, follow this simple procedure:

● Lay a row of boards, unglued, with the tongue toward the wall, directly on top of the last rowinstalled.
● Take a short piece of the hardwood flooring that is being installed with the face down and the tongue side against the wall.
● Draw a line with a pencil along the row moving down the wall. The resulting line gives the proper width for the last row which, when cut, can then be wedged into place using the pull bar.
● You will need to use the pull bar extensively to make the last row properly flush.


Step 5: FINISHING THE FLOOR
● A drying time of 24 hours is recommended before any damp mopping, cleaning or heavy objects or furniture can be put back into place.
● The use of putty or a non-silicone based filler to cover small cracks or face nails holes should be considered normal in hardwood flooring installations. Test filler on spare pieces first to ensure it blends with the floor.
● Make sure when the installation is complete that the expansion spacers are removed and the expansion space is covered with the appropriate molding such as baseboard and 1/4 round or shoe molding. Do not nail moldings into the floor but nail into the wall.
● Vacuum the floor thoroughly using the soft brush attachment or dust mop to remove any dirt anddebris.
● Use a quality Hardwood Flooring cleaner to finish the floor. We recommend Bona Swedish Formula Hardwood Cleaner
● If the floor is to be covered, do not use plastic use a breathable wrap, or material such as cardboard or kraft paper to protect the finish.
● Final inspection by the end user should be conducted from a standing position.


Installation Tips:
• Moldings must be predrilled avoid splitting whenever they are to be secured with nails or fasteners. Use a 10 or 12” miter saw with pre-set adjustments for the basic miter cuts at 22.5o, 45o, and 90o. A carbide tipped blade makes the best cuts.
• On Wall Base or Quarter Round moldings, never restrict the hardwood floor’s natural contraction/expansion movement by driving the fasteners at a downward angle. Rather, attach the moldings to the wall or vertical surface.
• Always miter cuts rather than having butt cuts when splicing. Decide the direction of the miter by cutting the molding with the long point oriented in the same direction as your natural line of vision when you enter the room.



Wall Base - Borders the wood floor at the base of the wall to give the room a finished look. This molding conceals the required expansion space between the wall and the hardwood flooring. It is also sometimes used under cabinets and toe kicks.

Quarter Round - This molding conceals the required expansion space between the wall and the hardwood flooring. It is also sometimes used under cabinets and toe kicks where a wall base won’t fit or at the base of the stairs to provide a subtle blend between the floor and the wall or vertical surface. Ensure nails are not going through the floor but into the vertical surface.
Threshold - Typically used at exterior doorways as a transition between flooring and the doorway threshold. It is also used to transition a wood floor to different floors to make them fit together perfectly, such as high pile carpeting or tile. Another typical use for a threshold is to conceal the expansion space between the flooring and a vertical surface such as fireplace hearths and sliding glass doors.

T-Molding - Commonly used in doorways to join two wood floors in adjoining rooms. Also recommended when making transitions from a wood floor to another floor that is approximately the same height such as ceramic tile, hardwood or laminate floors, not carpet. T-Moldings are also used to provide expansion joints when a floor dimension exceeds the length of 40’ or a width of 30’.

Reducer - Used to join hardwood floors that have been glued down or nailed down with floors of different heights such as vinyl, ceramic tile, or low pile carpeting.
Stair Nose - Provides the proper transition for stairways or steps which have hardwood floors that have been installed
by either the nail down or glue down installation method. Also provides the proper overhang for a transition from one floor level to the next such as the step into a sunken living room.
Radiant Heat Installation
The following products from Casabella Hardwood ARE APPROVED over radiant heat:
• Aged Vintage (White Oak Only)
• Cheshire
• Countryside Birch
• Handcrafted Hickory
• Provincial
• Tradewinds
• Tuscany

The following products from Casabella Hardwood ARE NOT approved over radiant heat:
• Adirondack

• Aged Vintage (Hickory only)
• American Heritage
• Angora
• Cimmaron
• Essence Oak
• Estate Hickory
• Heritage Hickory

• Lakewood Ranch
• Melbourne
• Oak Handscraped
• San Pietro Oak
• Valley Stream
• Portofino
• Baroque
• Ferno


If you have a product that is not on the list, please contact your sales representative.


INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLATIONS OVER RADIANT HEAT SYSTEMS
Moisture and Humidity - Please read before beginning installation
Room temperature and humidity of installation area should be consistent with normal, year-round living conditions for at least a week before installation of wood flooring. Room temperature of 65 – 75 degrees Fahrenheit and a humidity range of 35% – 65% should be maintained during acclimatization, installation, and at all times afterward. Warning – humidity levels below these recommended levels will likely cause movement in the flooring, including gapping between pieces and possible cupping and checking in the face.
Casabella Hardwood cannot be held responsible for site conditions. Flooring formats, such as plywood based engineered wood flooring, are particularly susceptible to showing movement such as edge/shrinking and face checking from relative humidity below the stated minimum on site and/or tip raising and subsequent end shrinking if installed over a wet subfloor.
Important Notes:
Warranty is void if subfloor surface exceeds 81 degrees Fahrenheit.
Beware of “hot spots” where radiant heat enters the room, as they can be significantly hotter.
Prior to Installation of Wood Flooring:
Radiant heat must be installed and turned on- for a minimum of 3 weeks prior to installation of wood flooring. Make sure to acclimate the new wood flooring in open packaging or out of packaging, in living areas of the home until moisture content falls within 4% points or less of the subfloor content.
Just prior to installation, radiant heat should be turned off or on the lowest setting for a minimum of 6 hours. This will prevent “hot spots” which could leave applicator marks or cause bubbles.
Glue Down Direct to Concrete
Radiant Heating pipes must be covered at least 3cm from the surface. The concrete must be: Fully dry
Flat and level Compact and Hard
Clean of Dust, Oil and grease Free of cracks
Radiant Heat under Plywood Sub-Floor

It is recommended to glue and nail or staple down the floor when installed with radiant heating. Blind nail at a 45 degree angle into tongue with nails/staples approximately equal to the thickness of the engineered floor.
After Installation of Wood Flooring
Radiant Heat systems should be turned on and the temperature increased gradually over an approximate 10 to 14 day period. Regardless if the system is new or pre-existing, NEVER allow the radiant heat system’s temperature to change up or down more than 2 degrees Fahrenheit per day.
During the cold seasons when radiant heating is working at full power the humidity can get very low and the wood can become dried out. To prevent damage to the flooring (cracking or splitting) It is recommended that the relative humidity level remains between 35% and 65%. To ensure this, it is strongly advised to install room humidifiers or whole house systems, to ensure that the room does not become overly dry.
Casabella Hardwood Installation Guidelines are intended to offer general guidance as it relates to Casabella Hardwood and are NOT a replacement for a professional, certified installer. All Casabella Hardwood flooring
MUST be installed according to the National Wood Flooring Association’s (NWFA) installation guidelines in order for the Warranty to be valid. The most current publication of the NWFA guidelines are available to all NWFA members, and can be found atwww.nwfa.org


Glue Assist Installation Requirement

Additional installation instructions for all solid floors over 4” wide & all engineered floors over 5” wide:
Glue Assisted Installation: You must account for potential moisture in any installation. All installations of the wood floors mentioned above require a glue assisted install. The two suggested ways to provide a moisture vapor retardant are:
1. Install an underlayment paper. Cut a ½" channel, in the paper perpendicular to the direction of the floor to be laid, every 12" on center. During installation of the wood run a minimum ¼" bead of approved adhesive (Mapei Ultrabond Eco 907 or a comparable product in caulking cartridge) every 12" on center perpendicular to the direction of the wood.

2. Roll on a coat of moisture barrier over the entire subfloor to create a moisture retardant surface. Use a normal nailing pattern for the dimensions of the wood installed per NWFA installation procedures.

Hardwood Warranty

Thank you for your Casabella Floors new hardwood purchase. We make every effort to ensure your complete satisfaction by manufacturing to the highest quality standards. Every strip goes through numerous quality inspections not only during production, but also prior to packaging and shipping.
The warranty described below is solely extended to the original purchaser and is subject to the procedures, limitations, disclaimers and exclusions set forth herein. This warranty covers only approved product applications as recommended by the Manufacturer.
MOISTURE AND HUMIDITY - READ THIS PRIOR TO INSTALLATION
Room temperature and humidity of installation area should be consistent with normal, year-round living conditions for at least a week before installation of wood flooring. Room temperature of 65-75°F and a humidity range of 35% - 65% should be maintained during acclimatization, installation, and at all times afterward.
Warning - humidity levels below these recommended levels will likely cause movement in the flooring, including gapping between pieces and possible cupping and checking in the face.
The Manufacturer cannot be held responsible for site conditions. Flooring formats, such as plywood based engineered wood flooring, are particularly susceptible to showing movement such as edge/end shrinking and face checking from relative humidity below the stated minimums on site and/or tip raising and subsequent end shrinking if installed over a wet subfloor.
PRE-INSTALLATION WARRANTY
The Manufacturer warrants to the original purchaser that each of these products meets our quality standards. You and/or your Installer should carefully inspect the material before installation. Since wood is a natural product, there are possibilities for variation in color, tone and grain. Such variations are not covered by this warranty. Please note that all hardwood floors have a cutting waste tolerance of 10%.
Wood is a natural, living material that reacts to the surrounding environment, it is possible that certain factors (e.g., unusual humidity levels {too dry or too wet}, improper installation, improper handling, a lack of acclimatization, moisture
{too dry or too wet}, etc.) may cause cracks, face checks, and/or splits to appear in certain boards of your floor. Boards with cracks, face splits, and/or splits must be put aside for replacement for warranty coverage to apply. Once floor boards are installed, warranty coverage is no longer applicable because cracks and/or splits may result from various external factors out of the manufacturer's control.

LIMITED STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY WARRANTY FOR AS LONG AS YOU OWN YOUR FLOORS
The Manufacturer warrants to the original retail purchaser of its products that the flooring material, in its original manufactured condition, shall be free from manufacturing defects in milling and grading for as long as you own your Flooring (except as otherwise noted below)

35 YEAR RESIDENTIAL SURFACE FINISH LIMITED WARRANTY
The surface finish for Flooring purchased for residential use is warranted by the Manufacturer not to wear through or separate from flooring for 30 years from the date of retail purchase under normal residential traffic conditions so long as all care and maintenance instructions provided by the Manufacturer are followed. Failure to do so will void this warranty.

5 YEAR COMMERCIAL SURFACE FINISH LIMITED WARRANTY
The surface finish for Flooring purchased for commercial use is warranted by the Manufacturer not to wear through or separate from flooring for 5 years from the date of retail purchase under normal commercial traffic conditions so long as all care and maintenance instructions provided by the Manufacturer are followed. Failure to do so will void this warranty.
All Flooring warranties, including any implied warranties, apply to the original retail purchaser of the Flooring only. All warranty coverage terminates if you sell or otherwise transfer the Flooring or the property to which the Flooring is attached.
LIMIT ON IMPLIED WARRANTIES
To the greatest extent permitted by law, any implied warranty on flooring, including implied warranties of merchantability and/or fitness for a particular purpose, is limited in duration to the duration of this warranty. Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitation may not apply to you.
WHAT THIS WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER
In order to be covered under this limited warranty, the Flooring must be properly installed by a licensed flooring contractor in accordance with all installation instructions provided to you with the Flooring. This warranty does not cover damage
arising from improper installation of the Flooring. In order to be covered under this limited warranty, the Flooring must be purchased from an authorized dealer of the Manufacturer’s Flooring products.
The Manufacturer offers no additional warranties, express or implied, other than those set forth herein. Neither your retailer nor anyone else has the authority to alter the terms of this warranty. Any representations or promises made by your retailer or installer are not binding on the Manufacturer.
This warranty does not cover natural expansion and contraction resulting in separation between boards or damage caused by low or excessive humidity that wood floors may experience, based on weather conditions or other outside forces.
This warranty does not cover cupping, delaminating, and/or crowning due to excessive moisture or humidity.
This warranty does not cover damage resulting from the failure to properly maintain Flooring and may be voided due to your failure to follow all of the Manufacturer’s care and maintenance instructions.
This warranty does not cover damage caused by improper or incorrect use or application of any product on Flooring.
This warranty does not cover naturally occurring elements of wood flooring, including but not limited to, open knot holes, pits, worm holes, grading, lengths, natural occurring wood characteristics such as variations in grain, color, mineral streaks or other characteristics resulting from true craftsmanship or hand-scraping of Flooring.
This warranty does not cover damages caused by or relating to improper transportation, storage, or installation of the Flooring. This warranty does not cover any defects unless the square footage of such defective flooring exceeds ten percent (10%) of the total square footage of your purchased Flooring.
This warranty does not cover manufacturing defects in Flooring that has been installed (glued/stapled/nailed/floating). By installing the flooring, the Installer/Homeowner constitutes the flooring isacceptable. The Manufacturer will not be liable for any shipping and handling for any replacement Flooring, along with any and all other costs related to the replacing the Flooring (e.g., labor to remove Flooring, labor to install replacement Flooring, additional materials required to install replacement Flooring, removal of any household fixtures or furniture required to repair or replace the Flooring, hotel stays required due to repair or replacement restitution, etc.) if the floor is rejected after the flooring has been installed.
The Manufacturer must be notified of any such manufacturing defects before the Flooring is installed. If not properly notified, the Manufacturer shall not be held liable for any costs or expenses incurred as a result of the purchase or installation of any such defective or unsatisfactory Flooring. The Manufacturer will not be liable for any shipping and handling for any replacement Flooring, along with any and all other costs related to the replacing the Flooring (e.g., labor to remove Flooring, labor to install replacement Flooring, additional materials required to install replacement Flooring, removal of any household fixtures or furniture required to repair or replace the Flooring, hotel stays required due to repair or replacement, restitution, etc.).
This warranty does not cover variances in grain or color found in samples or photographs supplied by dealers or variances in grain or color between samples and Flooring actually received by you.
This warranty does not cover any change to the Flooring caused by exposure to light and oxygen, including any color change or the development of a unique patina over time. Color variations in wood flooring are a natural occurrence due to species, age or character of flooring and exposure to UV light or sunlight. For these reasons, new and/or replacement flooring may not match display samples and/or existing flooring exactly. Gloss reduction is not considered surface wear.
This warranty does not cover indentations, chipping, cracks, scratches or other damage caused by negligence, intentional acts, water and/or moisture, sand, stains, fire, water, moisture, excessive heat, excessive dryness, erosions, pebbles, sand or other abrasives, pets, insects, spiked heel shoes, weather conditions or natural disasters, color variations, and naturally occurring wood characteristics abuse or other misuse of the Flooring.
This warranty does not cover any claims about the average lengths of the product. Any documents that describe the average lengths are not official and only an estimate.
This warranty does not cover any spills on the floor (paint, construction material, food, liquid, chemicals, etc.)
This warranty does not cover damages resulting from the failure to provide proper environmental conditions, including but not limited to maintaining proper humidity levels.
This warranty does not cover surface checking resulting from high or low relative humidity and/or mildew, discoloration, or cupping resulting from sub floor moisture. This warranty does not cover apply to extreme conditions. The humidity level in the home must be in the 40%-60% range throughout the year using air conditioners, humidifiers or dehumidifiers as appropriate.
This warranty does not cover damage caused by moisture penetration through the sub-floor, flooding, leaking, plumbing, overflowing sinks or similar water damage.
This warranty does not cover any insect infestation after the product as left the factory.
This warranty does not cover normal exposure to sunlight will bring changes in shading of any hardwood floor as the floor ages. Area rugs should be moved occasionally because they block sunlight and may give the appearance of discoloring under the rug. This is not a product defect.


This warranty does not cover scratches, dents from drag or moving furniture on the Floor
This warranty does not cover to any product or products designated as seconds, rustic, cabin, closeouts, off- goods or non- standard items. Any product(s) so designated is sold “As Is.”
This warranty does not cover the Flooring once the Flooring has been glued/stapled/nailed. It is the responsibility of the Installer and/or the Owner to inspect each board prior to installation and if there is any defect noticed after installation the Installer and/or the Owner will be responsible for any cost and the Manufacturer will not accept responsibility. The Manufacturer recommends racking out the Floor prior to installation and if the Installer and/or the Owner do not like the Flooring, DO NOT install the Floor. Once the flooring has been installed (glue/staple/nail/floating) the Installer and/or the Owner has accepted the flooring even if the owner is not present. The Manufacturer will not accept responsibility for costs of the product, for shipping and handling for any replacement Flooring, along with any and all other costs related to the replacing the flooring (e.g., labor to remove Flooring, labor to install replacement Flooring, additional materials required to install replacement Flooring, removal of any household fixtures or furniture required to repair or replace the Flooring, hotel stays required due to repair or replacement, restitution, etc.).
This warranty does not cover damage resulting from the failure to follow manufacturer's installation and maintenance instructions, including but not limited to the failure to use approved adhesives, moisture barriers, and failure to follow the Manufacturer’s flooring product maintenance instructions. The Manufacturer recommend that you use only the Manufacturer’s approved maintenance products to clean and maintain your Flooring.
Homeowner/End User would need to prove proper maintenance was followed Use of cleaning or maintenance products other than those specially formulated for the Flooring, or improper use or application of any cleaning or maintenance product, may cause damage to the Flooring and may void this limited warranty. This warranty does not cover any restitution to the Distributer /Retailer /Installer/Contractor /Owner.
This warranty is not transferable.
WHAT THE MANUFACTURER WILL PROVIDE
The Manufacturer will, at its option, either repair and/or replace the Flooring which is defective or credit you for the portion of the purchase price attributable to the Flooring which is defective. Homeowner/Installer are responsible to pay for shipping and handling for any replacement Flooring, along with any and all other costs related to the defective Flooring (e.g., labor to remove Flooring, labor to install replacement Flooring, additional materials required to install replacement Flooring, removal of any household fixtures or furniture required to repair or replace the Flooring, hotel stays required due to repair or replacement, etc.). Due to the nature of the product, replacement Flooring is not guaranteed to match the original Flooring in terms of color, tone, pattern or other natural characteristics of wood. These remedies are your sole and exclusive remedies under this warranty.
YOUR RIGHTS UNDER STATE LAW
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state.
GOVERNING LAW, FORUM AND VENUE
This warranty shall be interpreted in accordance with the laws of the State of New York, without regard to any choice of law provisions which might otherwise apply in New York or elsewhere. The Manufacturer and customer agree that the Superior Court of New York shall have exclusive jurisdiction to adjudicate any claim or controversy arising out of or relating to this warranty or the Manufacturer. You acknowledge and agree that all actions or proceedings arising in connection with this warranty shall be tried and litigated exclusively in the County of New York, State of New York. If any provision of this warranty is found to be unenforceable, the

remaining provisions will remain in full force and effect.
Manufacturer Installation Guidelines are intended to offer general guidance as it relates to the Manufacturer and are NOT a replacement for a professional, certified installer. All Flooring MUST be installed according to the National Wood Flooring Association’s (NWFA) installation guidelines in order for the Manufacturer Warranty to be valid. The most current publication of the NWFA guidelines is available to all NWFA members, and can be found at www.nwfa.org.
Due to the natural materials and unique finishing processes, wood products may experience tonal and color variation between planks depending on time in or out of the box and conditions such as weather, temperature, location, moisture levels or proper maintenance and installation. To avoid dramatic variation mainly caused by aging, it is recommended installation be completed from the same lot.
This warranty is required to be shared with the Distributer/Dealer/Contractor/Installer/Homeowner prior to installing the flooring.

CARE & MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES
(UV Cured Finish Products)

WATER AND WOOD DON’T MIX
Using any of the following items to maintain the Floor will void all manufacturer warranties!

• Water
• Oil Soap
• Vinegar, Ammonia
• Household Detergent • Wax
• Furniture Polish
• Dust Control Sprays
• Cleaners that leave an acrylic finish

Any of the above can damage the finish, leave greasy films, discolorations or make the Floor slippery and hard to maintain. If any improper cleaning methods are used to maintain the hardwood Floor, the homeowner or end-user will be responsible for all subsequent damages done to the Flooring.
KEEPING THE HARDWOOD FLOOR BEAUTIFUL
Floorings are factory finished and protected with several layers of technically advanced high-quality UV Cured Urethane Finish. This finish is tough, durable, smooth and easy to maintain. Casabella Hardwood recommends XL North LVT/Wood Cleaner or Bona Hard-Surface Floor Cleaner, specifically formulated for use on hardwood floor covering in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and allowed to dry. Contact your retailer for advice on maintaining or restoring the Floor's finish.
SCRATCHES, INDENTATIONS AND GOUGES Indentations:
The species of wood used to manufacture the Flooring is resistant to deep scratching and indentations (impact
compression). However, the amount of impact pressure is determined by the object’s weight and the size of the impact
area.
SPIKED HEELS:
A 125-pound lady wearing high heel shoes can exert as much as 3500 pounds of pressure per square inch. The size of the indentations are usually 3/16" to 1/2", thus the pressure on wood floor may exceed 7,000 pounds.
LEGS OF CHAIRS, TABLES AND FURNITURE:
Felt pads should be glued to all legs of chairs and furniture. These pads should be checked once a month for wear and see if they have filled with grit. Replace as needed.
Use floor protectors and wide load bearing leg bases or rollers to minimize scratches, gouges and indentations from heavy objects. Rollers or casters should be at least one inch wide and made of non-marking hard rubber. Metal or plastic types should never be used.
ROLLER CHAIR CASTER DAMAGE:
The only type of rolling caster recommended by the Manufacturer and the NWFA is a wide barrel type roller made of non- marking hard rubber.
SCRATCHES AND GOUGES
Micro-fine particles of aluminum-oxide have been added to the finish and are suspended in the layers of finish to provide the Floor with years of wear protection.
There are no finishes available to the wood flooring industry that will not scratch, indent or gouge. The Manufacturer does not consider these issues to be warrantable.
USE OF MATS AT EXTERIOR ENTRIES
Place mats with stiff bristles at all exterior entries to the house. A softer area rug or mat should be used on the room side of exterior doors. They will help collect the dirt, sand, grit and other substances such as oil, asphalt or driveway sealer that can otherwise be tracked onto the Floor.

USE REA RUGS
Use area rugs in high traffic areas and pivot points (e.g. Room entries, stair landings), especially for pets or a large family.
DON’T ALLOW WATER TO STAND ON THE FLOOR
Do no allow ice cubes to melt on the Floor. Check in front of the dishwasher, sink, and refrigerator and around the pet’s
water bowl. Don’t track snow or water onto the Floor without immediately drying it up. Look for water leaks under doors to
the outside and near sliding glass doorways.

DO:
• Sweep, vacuum or dust-mop the Floor regularly.
• Trim the claws of pets regularly to reduce scratches and indentations.
• Glue protective felt pads on the legs of all chairs and furniture to reduce scratches, indentations and damage to the Floor. Check them regularly for wear and embedded grit. Replace as needed.
• Wipe up spills IMMEDIATELY.
• Stop dirt at the entrance. Grit, gravel, sand and dirt are enemies of hardwood floors.
• Make it a habit to keep the wood Floor clean.
• Vacuum regularly with a vacuum that does not use a beater bar head or attachments intended for carpet.
• Protect the Floor when moving appliances or furniture. Lay down a sheet of clean quarter-inch plywood or Masonite to protect the Floor. Use a dolly.
DON’T:
• Using plastic film or other non-breathing coverings as humidity buildups can cause the floor to become damaged.
• Expose the floor to excessive sunlight since it can cause color fading or discoloration.
• Use water to clean or mop the Floor. Water causes deterioration of the wood itself and the finish.
• Use round headed chair or furniture leg glides.
• Allow spike heels to indent and damage the floor. Those in disrepair are especially harmful.
• Track in sand, grit or dirt onto the wood floor. A grain of sand has 26 razor-sharp edges. That is like walking on a floor with sandpaper on the soles of shoes.
• Drag furniture or heavy objects across the surface of the Floor.
• Use household dust treatment products as this will make the Floor slick.
• Use cleaning tools or machines that apply water or steam to the wood Floor.
• Roll or slide the refrigerator on the wood Floor. The weight may severely damage the Floor.
• Use rubber or foam-backed plastic mats, as they may discolor the Floor.
• Allow ice cubes to melt or water to dry on the wood Floor.