Konecto flooring is the new floating floor product to hit the market. The product is a breeze to install and can be installed over wood, concrete or other types of flooring. It's also waterproof, so you can install it anywhere. The flooring comes in planks that look like wood but is really a two-part plank consisting of a designed upper layer and vinyl bottom layer. The planks are flexible making installation as easy and cut and press. Anyone that can spend time on his knees on a floor can complete this project in a matter of hours.
Prepare the subfloor by cleaning, sweeping debris and filling any cracks, holes or grout lines. The subfloor must be relatively flat, solid, clean and have very little flexibility. Konecto can be installed on a concrete slab unless the slab is know to have a moisture or alkalinity problem. Then you must install a polyurethane sheet or apply a paint on concrete sealant before installation.
Bring the Kenecto into the room where it will be installed and take the top off the box. Allow the flooring to acclimate to temperature and humidity in the room for 24 to 48 hours, with a temperature of at least 65 degrees.
Measure your room from one side to the other on both ends of the wall. If they are not the same, your floor is out of square and you will need to adjust for it. To make the adjustment, square your measurement and snap a chalk line along the wall where you will begin installation. if your wall is square, then you will not need a chalk line.
Lay down your first row of planks along the wall from one side to the other without fastening them together. Use planks from three separate boxes to keep slight changes in color mixed within the floor. Check to see if the end piece will be less than 12 inches. If so, you may want to cut the first piece to have a more even look to the flooring.
Start at a corner and run the planks from one wall to the other. Trim off the over edge that will go along the wall and place a 1/8 inch spacer between the first plank and the wall. The under edge should be facing away from the wall. Lay the next one down and place spacer behind it. Then attach the sides with the adhesive tabs attached to the planks.
Start your second row with a piece two-thirds the size of the first piece in the first row. This will keep the seams offset and make the flooring stronger and look more like real wood planking. Then put in the plank next to it. This time you will line up the adhesive strip on the side and the back of the plank to the adjoining planks. Continue to work across and down with the planking.
Install a piece that needs to be cut around something by using thick paper to trace a template of the obstruction. Then use the template on your plank and score with the utility knife and snap it apart.
Use a hand roller to go over the seams as you install the planks. They will pull apart if you've made a mistake, so don't roll them until you have them just the way you want them. When you have the entire floor finished, pull the spacers up and go over the floor with a 100-pound floor roller.
Install baseboard or trim to hide the expansion space and you're finished.